Front Axle U-Joints

[Java]

I'm starting my winter maintenance on my Jeep and am replacing both front axle U-Joints. I'm going through both axles this winter and am replacing these due to age and multiple water crossings. As such I'm tempted to just go with the Spicers again, but I also like the Moog greaseable ones. The OEM ones are the Spicers and haven't been greased since 2006, still working, but I like the idea of being able to grease them. Price is irrelevant. Any opinions?

Thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/Moog-377-Super-Strength-Universal/dp/B009HQJPAY/ref=psdc_15724901_t4_B009X1XDZG

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009X1XDZG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2TW9PAD7D7YND&psc=1

[Trevor?]

Isn't the transfer case side of the front driveshaft a double cardan on a TJ or LJ? I've never had good luck getting access to the zerks on my greasable double cardan CVs / ujoints without unbolting the driveshaft from the t-case flange, even with a needle-nozzle adapter. But my zerks are on the body of the u-joint and not in the cap like the one you show so its probably not much of an issue. The fitting for the central joint is the toughest to get to.

Then again maybe the LJs are different and use two u joints...if so than sorry about that.

If the non-serviceable spicers worked well for you before then it seems likely they will again. Fewer items on the maintenance list is generally a good thing.

[Java]

I'm actually doing the front axle joints, not the driveshaft. I replaced all my driveshaft u joints front and rear last winter, and have a complete spare rear driveshaft in my trail spares too. I have spare front and rear axle shafts too, but it's a bit of a pain to replace them on the trail and they are heavy / cumbersome to carry, I usually just carry the short side.

Side note, I crossed "fix center console rattle" off my list yesterday by cleaning it and taking all the loose stuff out. Not my finest moment.

[derf]

I've always been a fan of Spicer joints. You don't get much better until you get into the stupid expensive aftermarket parts.

[Trevor?]

I misunderstood. Sorry about that. I suppose my last comment may still be useful, unless you think you'll be stressing them more now than in the past or doing more water crossings more often...In which case Derf makes a good point.

[Java]

I appreciate it! Your comments are useful and the TJ and LJ front shafts are identical, the LJ is longer than the TJ behind the transfer case, identical before. The rear driveshaft is almost the same too, same yokes and joints with a longer shaft. I'm inline with Derf's thinking too, just wondering if anyone has a particular U-joint that they'd recommend over the Spicer. From what I've read the grease passage in the greaseable ones are the weak point, so that's another point for Spicer. Pretty sure I'm just going to order those.

[Brian]

Another vote for the Spicer joint. I know mine went 13 years and 140K miles without complaint before I changed them "just because."

[4wdhunter]

Another vote for the Spicers

[Getaklu]

RCV axle set would be worth exploring in my opinion.

[The StRanger]

RCVs are the way to go for big money...
for my kinda money run the Spicers...

[Java]

Spicer again FTW. I'll keep the ones that come off as spares, depending. Thanks everyone! :thumb:

[open_circuit]

I found the Yukon Chromoly axle set for for $370 on Amazon today. I'm not sure I've ever seen it this cheap before. https://www.amazon.com/USA-Standard-Gear-W24110-Differential/dp/B00D61DQ92

[open_circuit]

I ordered the chromoly axle kit for my Jeep. Looks like I'll have to press the U-joints in as part of the install. Do you plan to use a sledge or a press to do yours, Paul? I've never done U-joints before, but it doesn't look complicated.

[newracer]

The last time I did u-joints on my JKUR I tried the sledge and socket method and it was difficult. I then used my ball joint press and it was much easier.

[open_circuit]

The last time I did u-joints on my JKUR I tried the sledge and socket method and it was difficult. I then used my ball joint press and it was much easier.

This was my thinking was well. I don't own a ball joint kit so I'll rent one from the auto store. I rented a kit to replace control arm bushings last year and found it to be annoyingly difficult due to the c clamp on the kit being damaged (pried apart slightly). I'll rent from a different store this time and hope for a kit in better condition!

[Java]

$370 is a good deal. :thumb: I'm going to use a combination of hammer, sockets, heat and this https://www.harborfreight.com/ball-joint-service-kit-for-2wd-and-4wd-vehicles-63279.html

I've used it for driveshafts and balljoints, it's a useful thing to have around. Amazon has similar kits at decent prices too. Mine is pretty beat up, I remember I had an issue when I did my Jeep's Balljoints but can't remember what it was and haven't looked at it yet. If it's good to go you can borrow it.

[newracer]

That is the kit I have. I clamped it in a vise on the workbench and used an air impact to turn it.

[open_circuit]

That kit looks fine. I've considered buying it (and it seems to be on sale with coupon for $59.99 right now). I can "rent" for free from my local auto parts store, which is what I have done in the past. The kits I have rented before have more pieces to fit more odd shaped stuff, so I would be tempted to buy a kit with a few more pieces if I wanted to own one.

[4wdhunter]

x100 on the ball joint press. So much easier than the hammer and socket method. Either will work though. After you get the joints installed give each joint cap a whack or two with the sledge. Helps to seat the cap and loosen up the fit so it rotates easier.

[FINOCJ]

I've never had a big issue with the hammer and socket/driver/drift method. Sometimes is a bit of a PITA, but a bit of heat really helps (I've started using the oven quite a bit to warm stuff up and expand it just a bit - just don't tell Jen).

[Trevor?]

Forgive me if this is obvious, but you might want to consider putting some thick grease on the threads of that press tool. Almost every time I rent any threaded tool like that from the parts store it's dry, and half the time the threads are remarkably warn.

[open_circuit]

Got my axles today. Picked up the Maddox ball joint service set from HF and got everything together pretty easily. I'd hate to have to do this with just a hammer. The service kit and a 3 ft 1/2" breaker bar to turn it made for relatively easy going. Will probably swap the axles on Saturday or Sunday.

Thanks for all the tips.

Trevor, my service kit tool was completely dry from HF. I put some light 3-in-1 oil on the threads (what was close at hand) and it seemed quite happy. I'll grease it up with something heavier the next time I use it.

[JandDGreens]

Got my axles today. Picked up the Maddox ball joint service set from HF and got everything together pretty easily. I'd hate to have to do this with just a hammer. The service kit and a 3 ft 1/2" breaker bar to turn it made for relatively easy going. Will probably swap the axles on Saturday or Sunday.

Thanks for all the tips.

Trevor, my service kit tool was completely dry from HF. I put some light 3-in-1 oil on the threads (what was close at hand) and it seemed quite happy. I'll grease it up with something heavier the next time I use it.
I used that tool to press in my front axle front control arm bushings, went very well!!!!

[Java]

I developed "Angry Sparrows" in my front driveshaft this past weekend so I ordered this https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Double-Cardan-Driveshaft-Rebuild/dp/B07KLSGBK1/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=front+drive+shaft+kit+rebuild&qid=1611248801&s=automotive&sr=1-1

and two of these https://www.amazon.com/Spicer-5-760X-U-Joint-Kit/dp/B009X1XDZG/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=Spicer+5-760X&qid=1611327755&s=automotive&sr=1-2

so I'll have one big U-joint day next week, plus whatever I find when I break down the front end. Glad I procrastinated on this, I can do it all at once. Eventually. :) I thought I had rebuilt my front driveshaft last year but I actually replaced the joints in the rear and rear trail spare, just did one joint up front, so aside from the lower joint it's all vintage 2006 Spicer.

[Jim]

14 years - pretty good life out of'm.

[Java]

Got all new joints for the front axle and front driveshaft plus a DC kit from Amazon today, all Spicer. They look pretty lined up on my bench, and they stayed there today. I remembered something was up with my ujoint tool, turns out I bent it on a stubborn ball joint last time I used it. I heated it up and bashed it with a BFH and got it pretty straight, but it took a while and a lot of whacks / reheating. After cleaning up the surfaces it seems like it will work otherwise more hammer tomorrow or a trip to Harbor Freight for a new one. The first two pics show it bent, the last two after.

I got the Jeep in the air and WD40'd everything, and found another stupid thing I did. A couple of years ago I had to replace a hub on the trail and lost my cotter pin in the process. Someone had a big finishing nail in the bed of their truck that worked. The part where it gets stupid is that at some point since then I painted it.

[Jim]

For the record... I see nothing (terribly) wrong with this (yes, even the nice - repair confirming - paint job)!!

https://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=51395&stc=1&d=1611618103

[Java]

Harbor Freight is awesome until it reminds you why it's so cheap. Just like yo mama. (Not you.) Ratcheting wrench died removing already loosened bolts on the front hub. Creeper died while creeping. I bent the Ujoint tool back to square, pressed the first joint and it bent right back. Finished with a hammer, gave myself hammer thumb due to distraction by my own bad attitude after my tools died, so I blame Harbor Freight for that too.

https://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=51390&stc=1&d=1611617856

[Steve-O]

Hahaha I'm like 50-50 with HF. The 2-jaw puller I bought to get my sway bar links off was so weak the jaws just spread apart around the sway bar and the whole thing came flying off. Also a torque wrench from them was torquing a whopping 20-25 lbs over. Other than that I've had good luck.

[Java]

I've had pretty good luck with some items, usually things that are just a piece of metal like a prybar are fine. Except for my Ujoint tool. IDK, it's not like I'm going to stop shopping there or anything. :lmao:

[newracer]

I am surprised the ball joint tool bent, i worked mine pretty hard using an air impact on it and its still square.

Their torque wrenches are typically considered pretty good, not for engine building but good enough for most work.

[Java]

I bent it a while ago taking off a stubborn ball joint with an impact and sledgehammer. Normal wear and tear, IMO.