2011 AMG G55 Build

[speedkills]

It begins!

https://i.imgur.com/VEJSaxz.jpg

Previously I started with this:
https://i.imgur.com/OSmABM9.jpg

and ended with this:

https://i.imgur.com/hlLlS6E.jpg


I wonder how this next build will turn out?

[open_circuit]

We should be able to get you some nice shots on the rocks at Lil Moab anniversary run.

[speedkills]

Don't think I'll be able to make much of Lil Moab in current form, but might be fun to try. Tires, wheels, shocks and springs need to happen right away. Still trying to decide between 18" wheels which I have and allow the larger front brakes, or 16" wheels which I love, but would require swapping the front calipers to those from a G500.

[open_circuit]

I strongly vote for 16" and more sidewall, but it's not my money I'm spending when I say that!

[speedkills]

I love more sidewall. My only concern there is braking performance as I'm planning on 35-38" tires on this build. Haven't decided which yet.

[open_circuit]

I love more sidewall. My only concern there is braking performance as I'm planning on 35-38" tires on this build. Haven't decided which yet.

That tire size does change things. Didn't realize you were aiming so high with this one. Going for beadlocks too?

[speedkills]

Yep. And portals. And CTIS. I thought about keeping it smaller to maintain the challenge of trails, but then decided I want it to be a snow bashing beast as most of my favorite runs are in snow. If I could hang with JP in the snow I'd be pretty happy.

[speedkills]

I was targeting 35" tires, and the Tibus portals are designed for them, but am considering the Ukranian portals, and if I do that they are designed for 38" tires. A few thousand cheaper for the Ukranian units. The Tibus has a 1.13:1 gear reduction, Ukranian is 1.3:1 gear reduction so they influence tire choice there heavily.

[speedkills]

I lean towards the 35" route though.

[speedkills]

For the jeepers here with big ass tires, how big before you started to feel a big difference in braking?

[derf]

I felt the sluggish acceleration (need to regear) well before needing bigger brakes.

[speedkills]

Shouldn't be an issue with gearing, I'm planning on going with portal axles and they have a reduction built in. 1.13:1 for the 35" tire units, 1.3:1 for the 38" units. Will keep all of the electronics happy, speedo accurate, and won't place any extra stress on the axles. But brakes will see the leverage change.

[derf]

:2thumbup:

[speedkills]

First things first. I ordered up some new shocks and springs, plus a spring compressor to get it all installed next week. The stock ride is punishing. 2200 miles in two days and I feel like I just spent 3 rounds taking kidney punches.

[TjSteveA]

Stay with the the bigger brakes. When I put my 37’s on I felt the difference in braking right away. I’ve only seen one other g wagon built that I used to wheel with a long time ago. But, his was a two door soft top.

[Java]

I didn't realize your Rover was wrapped, it looked great! Too bad it ended as it did. Interesting choice for the new vehicle, I can't wait to see it on portals!! :thumb:

[TDash]

looks like you're gonna have some fun on your hands, congrats

[goSlo]

It will be nice to see out on the trails, congrats on the G!

[speedkills]

I'd love to see a two door G on the trails too, those are a rare sight for sure.

Paul, I did the XPel wrap mostly because I didn't actually like the stock color and just a small change to the shade and I loved it, but after dragging all kinds of branches down the side of it for a couple of years I have to say I was really impressed with the protection it offered. Seriously considering doing this rig too. I like the color on this one, but just for the protection it's tempting.

[speedkills]

Stay with the the bigger brakes. When I put my 37’s on I felt the difference in braking right away. I’ve only seen one other g wagon built that I used to wheel with a long time ago. But, his was a two door soft top.

Thanks for the feedback. I feared as much but wasn't confident it would be an issue, based on your experience I'm going to go with 18" wheels. As much as I like sidewalls, I don't need a heavy 500hp truck that won't stop.

[jayson44]

congrats, Shane! you think the Ned heads will give you crap? :D

also, along those lines, I'm moving into town next week, so we should get together.

J.

[speedkills]

Absolutely and absolutely.

[speedkills]

Pulled the wheel off to see exactly why it felt like it was riding on the bump stops. Turns out it was, the AMG version has super long bump stops compared to regular. I’ll cut that down.

the stock shock also has more bump stop elastomer under the shock shaft cover. I’ve never seen so much bump stop but now I see why the front end doesn’t move when I corner or hit bumps.

Will replace the shocks and springs while I’m at it this weekend.

https://i.imgur.com/xU258Nk.jpghttps://i.imgur.com/Q9P0aet.jpg

[speedkills]

But first, I have to remove some of this chrome. Not my style at all.

https://i.imgur.com/EdMv7O3.jpg

[speedkills]

Only had an hour to play in the garage tonight but this is already better. https://i.imgur.com/oFOrhgH.jpg

[jayson44]

oh yeah, looks better already!

J.

[RockyMtRebel]

DAMN, I’ve never seen a G wagon off-road

[open_circuit]

I'm impressed that it can stand on 3 wheels. Looks like the front passenger wheel went out to lunch and the G is still standing level.

[TDash]

I'm impressed that it can stand on 3 wheels. Looks like the front passenger wheel went out to lunch and the G is still standing level.


not sure if you were joking but there is a light gray handle/black husky jack under it, if not

[speedkills]

The jack stand also helps. But rest assured there will be plenty of 3 wheel action on the trail as for some reason Mercedes designed one of the few solid axle setups that really doesn’t articulate well.

[open_circuit]

not sure if you were joking but there is a light gray handle/black husky jack under it, if not

I know :-)

[speedkills]

Went to install some shocks tonight, figured out they sent the wrong ones, and they were also missing parts :mad:

They were two inches longer giving me a lift I didn't want, yes one inch less travel, which I really didn't want. Will have to send these back and try again. Vendor told me these were 10" travel. I had to send pics of them next to a tape measure to show they aren't even 7" travel.

https://i.imgur.com/C2d2a43.jpg

[jayson44]

booo. sorry man, that's always a bummer. usually it's my fault that the parts don't fit! :D

J.

[speedkills]

We actually both screwed up. Vendor read the spec sheet wrong, then didn't measure before sending, then I didn't measure before installing. I did a quick measure, saw the total length was 2" longer, then installed it, realized shaft length didn't look right, so now I have to swap it back with stock tomorrow and return them.

[speedkills]

In my excitement I was like, yep, a few inches longer, perfect.

https://i.imgur.com/sQyUB82.jpg

Then after installing I stepped back to admire my handiwork and realized something seemed off, the shock body was longer meaning it could contain a longer shaft, but the actual shaft coming out was shorter. Plus, the rebound adjustment knob on it takes away another inch+ of travel. Not really sure what these are for but they sure have strange dimensions now that I look more closely.

https://i.imgur.com/gTWRQ3Y.jpg

https://imgur.com/a/X294hRX

[TyTheJeepGuy]

The bump stop travel looks about the same as on my 2020 Rubicon, and I definitely don't hit them on the turns. I hit them going over 30 on open trail sections though :)

[speedkills]

It’s the secondary bump stops on the shocks getting me. I’m still deciding what to do about shocks now that I see the Ohlins aren’t going to work out.

[speedkills]

If it’s going to be a while until I can find a shock setup I want worst case I’ll just go to Napa and get the cheapest things they have. Anything without an extra bump stop on the shaft will ride better.

[TDash]

It’s the secondary bump stops on the shocks getting me. I’m still deciding what to do about shocks now that I see the Ohlins aren’t going to work out.


I have no idea if these would work for you but I know you're a man who cuts no expense so wondering if you looked into these?

http://oristruts.com/stx-strut.html


I am considering them if I ever get around to getting a SAS on my rig

[speedkills]

Interesting, I have never heard of them but recognize the technology in a way from mountain bike air shocks. Worth looking into.

Ok, time to pull the Ohlins off and put my stock shock back on. But in an effort to salvage something of a better ride I decided to pull the elastomer off that is hidden under the cover.


But after doing that, I see the stock G55 shock has only 5.5" of travel. Did not expect that. I could have sworn I read that they were 8" for G-wagen's, and that the front of the G55 was 1" reduced travel. I wonder if this is some funny definition of travel that doesn't apply to both wheels going up and down 8" at the same time but measures while articulating.

What kind of shock strong do Jeeps tend to run? If anyone of you children could stop giggling I'd appreciate it if one of you could go measure your shaft for me and let me know how long the stroke is.


https://i.imgur.com/SatpUvL.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/470oiVT.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/JODQfLs.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/G65Ghtr.jpg

[speedkills]

Got all of my shocks removed, removed the extraneous bumper, then added o-rings so I could see travel used and reinstalled them, plus swapped to Old Man Emu rear springs to handle the amount of stuff I like to carry around. Still waiting on front springs.

https://i.imgur.com/QdsOOjy.jpg

[speedkills]

Decent improvement in the ride from the rear axle, feels like a truck now, not a mini truck. Front is still terrible, maybe 20% less terrible. Won’t have spring for the front for a couple of weeks still.

[speedkills]

Lazy weekend, didn't do much on my truck. I did some mild troubleshooting of the locking system that won't engage, found the vacuum pump powering it is dead so I ordered a new one up. I also did a quick modification to the switch pack that controls my lockers. Stock it enforces them locking in order and dependent upon each other, center, rear, front, which means if center fails you can't use rear or front either. I just cut a couple of transistors off of the switch pack board to disable the enforcement of locking sequence.

https://i.imgur.com/qEPDLyF.jpghttps://i.imgur.com/nGsMASr.jpghttps://i.imgur.com/N8nmBz8.jpg

[Jim]

I also did a quick modification to the switch pack that controls my lockers. Stock it enforces them locking in order and dependent upon each other, center, rear, front, which means if center fails you can't use rear or front either. I just cut a couple of transistors off of the switch pack board to disable the enforcement of locking sequence.

Power to the people!!

[open_circuit]

I'm surprised there is still a warning sticker on the center stack. I'd have peeled that off on day one if I bought this new. Previous owner kept it all this time

[speedkills]

One of these days. I actually peeled off one that was higher up but that one is so low on the stack I never even notice it.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Is there anything that can go wrong with, for example, the front diff locked but the transfer case / mid diff unlocked? I can't really think of anything but I'm wondering what their reasoning could have been.

[Jim]

ARB's default is the same - when one hits the front diff lock button they azzume the rear should also be on and both activate. Hitting the rear button (only) activates only the rear. I can't think of any reason outside of convenience. I like having the independent choice.

[speedkills]

There is something that can go wrong by enforcing them to be sequential, if the center fails, you have no rear or front lockers. The mod I did doesn't actually allow me to enable front without requesting rear, it just will go ahead and lock the front even if the rear never locks. As for purposely locking them out of order, people do it occasionally, mostly as a turning technique but I'm not too worried about that, I'm fine with the occasional Austin Powers if it comes to that.

[speedkills]

Made a little garage time tonight. Pulled the stock rear fiberglass bumper and rear fuel tank guard off in preparation to put a new steel rear bumper on and a trailer hitch. The 2009-2011 G-Wagen's didn't have a provision for a trailer hitch in the US so my bumper choice was made by the fact that the rear bumper I chose supports a class 3 receiver hitch. Made the decision easy anyway.

This was how I found the bumper in front of my house.
https://i.imgur.com/hbLC3jr.jpg


Getting ready to take the stock stuff off
https://i.imgur.com/qah6fD3.jpg

Turns out there are factory antennas in each end of the stock bumper under the plastic end caps. I wonder if I need to relocate these or if they will still work within the steel bumper?
https://i.imgur.com/wmmNtQC.jpg

The factory rear fuel tank guard is actually quite nice, maybe I can use it to make some other guard some day. I was going to take a plasma cutter to it and cut out a notch for the new trailer hitch but then I lucked out and found a used aftermarket one in Denver that is exactly what I needed, and nicer than I could have done with my current skillset anyway so this one is coming off.
https://i.imgur.com/9btePjW.jpg

Underneath it is a beefy little roll cage, plus the skid plate was a nice thick steel on the back plate. The plate on the bottom is a little thinner but overall I'm pretty happy with the stock protection here.
https://i.imgur.com/zSLSMHx.jpg

[speedkills]

Some googling and I learned that those antennas are for a built in telematics system, GM Onstar type thing which I will absolutely never use so I will just remove them.

[open_circuit]

Better remove that GWVR warning sign too. If you have that sign you'll be compelled to overload the vehicle just to prove it wrong.

[Jim]

those antennas are for a built in telematics system, GM Onstar type thing which I will absolutely never use so I will just remove them.

BWAHAHAHAHA... OnStar gets called - a G-Wagon has encountered a severe impact and police and ambulance are to be called by the system - oh, wait... GPS shows the vehicle is in a boulder field of some Colorado mountain trail - just notify manufacturer that vehicle warranty claims are to be ignored. :lmao:

[speedkills]

That GWVR limit is just due to the AMG short suspension. The chassis, brakes, and axles are rated way higher and I'll be fixing the suspension, so yeah, you can be assured I'll be loading it up with more than that at some point. They have a manual with all of the details for upfitters on what to do to increase it, like if you add an ambulance shell they tell you to add a rear sway bar.

[speedkills]

Small amount of progress today. Removed the old telematics system that is no longer in operation then installed the rear bumper and receiver hitch. I probably won't get around to hooking up the parking sensors, license plate light, and trailer harness until next week.

https://i.imgur.com/NgVqM9P.jpg

[speedkills]

Also stumbled across this almost empty area in the drivers side rear when I was removing the unused antennas. I'm definitely going to do something fun here, it is a good size for a battery or some other electronics, and has holes in the body with rubber plugs for running wires already which is sure to come in handy.

https://i.imgur.com/D0jn5RL.jpg

[speedkills]

Front springs and shocks. This box makes my G look puny.

https://i.imgur.com/eYKL4on.jpg

I'm enjoying this style of spring compressor. Much easier to work with than the two separate units I used on the last vehicle I swapped springs on.
https://i.imgur.com/TdBjBpx.jpg

Time to order up some limit straps and put some longer front brake lines on, I don't like how tight that is.
https://i.imgur.com/eBEDQKA.jpg

This feels like it will be an improvement.

https://i.imgur.com/lZ9Ac2H.jpg

Not a fan of the color but oh well, as long as they work well I won't care. Shock shaft looks reasonable on there finally.

https://i.imgur.com/Q3NcugG.jpg

Had to drill and tap a couple of holes to mount the reservoirs.

https://i.imgur.com/Kcy869o.jpg

Happy with how this turned out.

https://i.imgur.com/EDlqqQU.jpg

All back together and off of the jackstands. Nice and level finally, and looks like I can fit maybe 33-34" wheels in there as is.

https://i.imgur.com/v7Q6StV.jpg

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Nice work shane. When I installed my lift it came with brake bracket relocators, so you could keep the same brake lines but they mounted higher. Maybe you can find something like that for das wagen?

[Java]

Rig looks great! Those lower control arms are ridiculously beefy, and I'm really into that spring compressor. I just had a bad experience with my two piece set last fall, ended up with a stripped one which ruins the set, and had it in the back of my head to upgrade but hadn't shopped it out yet. Thanks! I like those vice grips too, I guess you can torque them down after they're already attached? That would be soooo useful...


edit- just bought these, thanks! Been so long since I bought new vice grips I had no idea those existed. :thumb:

[speedkills]

Yep, sized nicely to stick a screwdriver in the knob and get a bit of leverage to tighten them a little.

[open_circuit]

edit- just bought these, thanks! Been so long since I bought new vice grips I had no idea those existed. :thumb:

I think Shane owns the entire Milwaukee catalog of tools. He's a pretty good rolling advertisement for them when he loads out his truck full of red Milwaukee cases and tools.

[speedkills]

I do almost collect them. Lots of Husky and a few Ryobi too when I want to save a few bucks but overall with the exception of their fairly weak electric ratchet I have been very happy with every Milwaukee tool I have purchased which is more than I can say for other brands.

[speedkills]

Finished up the rear suspension tonight, now I just need to sort out the rear bumper so I can take it for a test drive. I don't want to pull it out of the garage until I do that as last time I did I was working on a wet floor the next day and had snow melting on me while I was wrenching.

Pulled the old cone style rear bump stop out and put in something that should be a little less abrupt when I bottom out.
https://imgur.com/a/1hYVyyX
https://i.imgur.com/utElCC1.jpg

Then installed new spring and shock

https://i.imgur.com/t6Nlc26.jpg

Went ahead and put a skid plate on the shock while I was at it as I'm not opposed to dragging parts if it gets me over the line I want.

https://i.imgur.com/MOblpqW.jpg

[speedkills]

Finished up the rear bumper install with the exception of parking sensors and license plate lights. Then realized after the second time I passed a cop that I also forgot to put my plate on.

The ride is day and night better than it was before. Haven't finished playing with the suspension but a quick test on a bunch of potholes and washboard showed turning the knobs made the difference I hoped for so I have some room to find settings for different conditions.

https://i.imgur.com/OunU2ts.jpg

[speedkills]

Made some small progress today. I checked the three lines for the diffs and two held air, one did not. After clamping off the leaking line (I didn't chase down the actual leak location yet) I went for a quick spin and found the front locker now works and the surging when using engine braking downhill has gone away.

https://i.imgur.com/jPclR7c.jpg

[jayson44]

nice work! I'm around in the evenings after 9 most days during the week. let me know if you need a hand!

J.

[speedkills]

I appreciate the offer, I'll try to chase the vacuum leak down myself but that is something that I'll probably end up needing an assist with.

[speedkills]

I'll have wheel adapters later this week to put my Rover wheels on it, that will be enough to get me trail ready even if I can't handle all of the same trails I could in my Disco yet, should be enough for most of what we do.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Are those progressive bump stops you put on?

[speedkills]

They came with the shocks. It sure what is different about them actually. Pretty much had to be softer than the AMG stops though. I don’t bottom much traditionally it if it becomes an issue I’ll put some hydraulic stops on.

[speedkills]

I wonder what happensif I plug this thing back in?

https://i.imgur.com/7WhBOFT.jpg


\o/ all of my lockers work now!

https://i.imgur.com/GnLY0g2.jpg

[Jim]

I wonder what happensif I plug this thing back in?

https://youtu.be/I5cYgRnfFDA?t=12



\o/ all of my lockers work now!

:thumb:

[speedkills]

Found 4 18” wheels on Craigslist for $300. I wish there were a 5th but hard to argue with the price for Merc wheels.

https://i.imgur.com/K50eSxO.jpg

Then did my favorite trivial mod, added an Anderson plug.

https://i.imgur.com/bvENjFW.jpg

[Jim]

Found 4 18” wheels on Craigslist for $300. I wish there were a 5th but hard to argue with the price for Merc wheels.

How about doing a junk yard online search - you need only one of'm - shouldn't be too costly to ship it.

[speedkills]

Smart. I’m going to see what I can find, thanks for the tip.

[speedkills]

Awwww yeah, new tires day!

https://i.imgur.com/BBZkTwu.jpg

[speedkills]

I've made this section a couple of times in my Disco, failed it a couple of times too. Even when I made it there was much struggle and scraping. The G walked right up it so that was fun.

https://i.imgur.com/wkrsP5g.jpg

[Java]

Tires look great, what a difference. I think they look squatty stock, that looks just right. :thumb: Am I seeing it correctly, the exhaust is infront of the rear tires?

[goSlo]

The G is coming along nicely!
Awesome to see you how got that locker back online.
Can't wait to see it flexin' around.

[jayson44]

woop woop! looks great Shane!

J.

[speedkills]

Yeah, exhaust exits right in front of the rear wheels. I'll likely just take a sawzall to them and cut them so they just dump out underneath once I figure out sliders.

[speedkills]

Testing clearances with new tires.

Just rubbed the steps climbing this.
https://i.imgur.com/dvsWhLd.jpg

[speedkills]

Got hung up in the snow pretty easily. Going to need to go bigger!

https://i.imgur.com/yD177JH.jpg

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Testing clearances with new tires.

Just rubbed the steps climbing this.
https://i.imgur.com/dvsWhLd.jpg

Those wheels and tires make it look kinda like an XJ Cherokee!

[speedkills]

You take that back! :lmao:

[TyTheJeepGuy]

You take that back! :lmao:

The XJ is revered by all Deuty's

[derf]

Those wheels and tires make it look kinda like an XJ Cherokee!

It doesn't look quite that good. :p

[The StRanger]

It doesn't look quite that good. :p

i like the looks. I kinda appreciate going different that a Jeep.
Jeeps are all cool and stuff but A BENZ !!! Hellz ya !!!!

[speedkills]

I do like me some Jeep clones. Some would call them rip-offs, I call them tributes.

https://i.imgur.com/m2UAyaC.jpg

[speedkills]

Starting in on putting a steel winch bumper on. The stock bumper has an oil cooler right where I would want to put a winch. While I'm at it I'm swapping the grill out for one from the older models, gives my G more of the look I fell in love with when I was younger, I'm not a fan of the newer fancier grills.

https://i.imgur.com/bob9HuG.jpg

Now I can see what I'm working with.
https://i.imgur.com/Sgzabbp.jpg

Then I ran into an unexpected issue, the bumper doesn't fit, it's too long on one side. They must have changed where they mounted the steering rack to the frame over the years, my new bumper has the same length frame mounts and same spacing bolt holes on both sides but on my G they are different. Had to lop a couple of inches off of one side of the bumper frame ears and then tap a new hole for the spacing of my G.

https://i.imgur.com/Etiq4KW.jpg

Not the cleanest cut ever, but it fits now. I ended up grinding it down a bit straighter after this pic.

https://i.imgur.com/G2b45HQ.jpg

Main frame of the bumper mounted up, did a quick test fit of the oil cooler and it might just fit below the winch like this. If not I'll pick up two smaller oil coolers and mount them on the left and right of the winch.

https://i.imgur.com/kZdz2LG.jpg

And then I ran out of steam. Hopefully I get this together tomorrow for the slaughterhouse run Sunday, if not I'll bring my Range Rover.

[TDash]

As long as it fits, it looks great :)

[speedkills]

The cooler hanging down was actually two coolers stuck together, one is a transmission cooler, the other has part number pointing to a description of "sub-radiator" and it has coolant in it, was in a hurry today so didn't have time to trace the hoses. I wonder if it's actually just a bit of extra cooling vs the stock radiator size since it's supercharged or if maybe it's an intercooler? Either way, splitting them reduced their height so after making a few new brackets I was able to mount them really cleanly in the new bumper.

https://i.imgur.com/XVc3cnN.jpg
I ended up removing the flip up license plate holder/winch cover for now, the hinges it came with were super cheesy and it made way too much noise. Will have to figure out a better solution for that later. For now, since I'm tired of posting pics of my G in my garage, but too lazy to actually go anywhere, here's a driveway pic to change things up.

https://i.imgur.com/jdcwX8D.jpg

[speedkills]

I'm liking the older style grill, had to do a little cutting to it to get it to fit well but overall I prefer it, not having those three wide chrome bars. I do need to find some sort of mesh to put behind the Merc emblem though, looks a bit unfinished just looking straight into the radiator and some cooling pipe.

[Jaycifer]

The old grill looks killer!

[TDash]

Yeah it looks great and I agree about some kind of mesh will hide the radiator/cooling pipe

[Jim]

I like the 'new' look!

[Swank1975]

That looks awesome.

[speedkills]

No more side pipes to get crushed by the rocks. This mod I'm actually on the fence about keeping vs just taking a sawzall to my stock exhaust. This muffler also tucks up and out of the way better than my stock unit, but it is noisier than I would have liked. I'll try it out for a few weeks and make up my mind.

https://i.imgur.com/zDvFrHG.jpghttps://i.imgur.com/Ywck06y.jpg

[speedkills]

Installed my winch, fairlead, and flip up license plate mount. Haven't gotten around to wiring it yet but my current plan is to hide the winch control unit in the passenger side of the bumper.

https://i.imgur.com/LXnNz1H.jpg

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Wow that bumper looks great.

[speedkills]

Has enough room behind it that I think I am just going to mount my control box about here, once I swap the battery cables out for something a little longer/heavier gauge

https://i.imgur.com/NOidqL4.jpg

[TjMike]

Love the new grill look and the bumper looks awesome. Nice work!
As far as the exhaust noise... you will get use to it ;)

[speedkills]

I finished up my winch wiring Friday, putting the control unit in the bumper worked out great. I have a wireless remote for it but also ran a pigtail for the hard wired winch controller in case I need that as a backup way to control the winch.


https://i.imgur.com/ouUzsk9.jpg


Then I replaced the factory jump start post with a bus bar as it looked like a great place to route high amp power like winch, compressor, and my SB175 Anderson plug.


https://i.imgur.com/hFMsYOq.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/3RQLN14.jpg


All wired up


https://i.imgur.com/vhMdCgq.jpg


While I was at it I shortened the flip up license plate mount so it sits right against my winch shackle.


https://i.imgur.com/Z5SWXAE.jpg

[speedkills]

Next up I mounted a front skid plate to protect the engine oil cooler. The mounts were about 1/4" away from where I needed them to be to mount up the G-Raid skid plate so I used the only device I had that can apply a sufficient compressing force over 27" distance. No mechanics were harmed during this operation.


https://i.imgur.com/wkLDSCa.jpg


That allowed the skid plate to mount right up, I feel a little safer now.


https://i.imgur.com/Eyua43s.jpg

[Jim]

That's a true-to-life...

If it don't fit... FORCE IT!

:D

[speedkills]

I don’t know how people don’t find more uses for hi-lifts, I use them all of the time it seems and keep talking to people who have owned one for a decade and not needed it once.

[TDash]

everything is looking super clean, well done

[derf]

I don’t know how people don’t find more uses for hi-lifts, I use them all of the time it seems and keep talking to people who have owned one for a decade and not needed it once.

I've been going off road for 20 years. I've only used a hi-lift twice. And both times it was to change a flat. I use my winches at least once a season it seems. And I've had years where I seem to use it multiple times every time I go out.

I guess it just depends on the rig and the terrain.

[speedkills]

Articulation is considerably improved after removing the front sway bar. With the sway bar removed my current limit on front flex is the tires hitting the wheel wells. The rear is considerably worse than the front regarding articulation, not sure exactly what is limiting it now.


https://i.imgur.com/FLUMeNQ.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/ms54gTx.jpg

[jayson44]

lookin good!

J.

[Schmitty]

Looking clean and mean. :thumb:

[The StRanger]

Just goin to show, those are not just for rich soccer moms in mall parking lots.

[Trevor?]

putting the control unit in the bumper worked out great. I have a wireless remote for it but...

Have you noticed any dead spots in or around the truck with the wireless remote reception?
On my old jeep I put the contactor/solonoid-pack under the hood behind the right headlight. In that position the wireless remote wouldn't work on account of the metal hood and fenders shielding it most likely.... but that was a warn remote where you plug a little receiver into the socket on the contactor box, and these wireless things are getting better and better every year.

After seeing your truck whenever I see any other G-wagon around town they look strange to me now. The tires are way too small.

[speedkills]

I haven't noticed any dead spots in my limited testing, but haven't tried getting too far away from it yet. Where I put the control box has an open back, plus air slots in the front so hopefully it isn't too well shielded.

[speedkills]

I didn't do much in the garage this weekend, just ended up hitting the trails all three days. I did finally mount my parking sensors to my bumper properly but I think one of them is bad as it acts like there is something behind me constantly on the left side.

I also did a quick experiment and directly powering the locker solenoids doesn't cause my computer to throw any errors so I am going to proceed with replacing my stock locker controls with an SPOD, that will let me activate my lockers in high range as well as in any order I want, plus I can use the SPOD to control other items so that will be a nice improvement.

Since I didn't do anything that would produce interesting pictures, instead I leave you with some pictures of my almost ready to ship portal axles. One gear came out flawed so I am waiting while they produce a new one.

https://i.imgur.com/quXc0pj.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/JJNqCW5.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/za19edn.jpg

[Jim]

Impressive looking adapters!

[jayson44]

oh drool-worthy!

J.

[Java]

Those gears in the portals are huge, I'm guessing those don't break often. Can't wait to see them go in!!

[speedkills]

They said they haven't had any break yet but just to be safe I ordered a spare set of gears in case I do break them someday, don't want to be down 2 months waiting for replacement parts.

[Schmitty]

I leave you with some pictures of my almost ready to ship portal axles

Put an NSFW warning on that, man.

[speedkills]

Today I have the most boring update ever, I put my stock exhaust back on. I was waiting on an exhaust clamp so ended up driving around for a week with one stock muffler and one aftermarket and even that was too loud. Stock is much better. AMGs sound good from the factory, I'll deal with the clearance issue that originally motivated the aftermarket exhaust (they don't hang as low as stock) by putting some sliders on that also protect the exhaust.

[TyTheJeepGuy]

https://tenor.com/vQtq.gif

[TDash]

most boring?

I'll raise you... 2 weekends ago I replaced my interior door handle bar (not the actual handle that you pull to open the door but one you grab to close it from the inside) for the purpose of replacing this clip that has been broken since I bought the truck that made my window and lock button trim bounce around unsecure. pretty lame I had to buy the whole door pull handle thing to fix it because that's where the vulnerable clip is located.. had to do it on both driver and passenger doors too :)

[speedkills]

Speaking of most boring, I went through about 10 drill bits trying to drill the bolt holes out of my exhaust clamps before I finally wised up, cut off the old ones and just put new clamps on. Might be time to look into a drill bit sharpener.

[Jim]

Might be time to look into a drill bit sharpener.

For general purpose twist drills (that aren't too small in dia), consider taking one to a grinding stone / bench grinder and hand holding it for a sharpen. You might find that the result is reasonable with no dedicated sharpening tool consuming shop space.

[Tom]

For general purpose twist drills (that aren't too small in dia), consider taking one to a grinding stone / bench grinder and hand holding it for a sharpen. You might find that the result is reasonable with no dedicated sharpening tool consuming shop space.
My father showed me how to do it by hand when I was about 12. Have never used a sharpener. Most decent grinders have a groove in the tool guide to assist.

[speedkills]

Makes sense, I guess I'd just shoot for about a 30 degree angle. Easy enough to try.

[Tom]

Did you use oil and slow speed while drilling? If not thats the reason you dulled so many bits.

[speedkills]

I used oil and high speed. Oops.

[FINOCJ]

I used oil and high speed. Oops.

After wasting quite a few bits drilling on my old jeep, I learned the value of drilling slow. You should be able to watch curls of metal shavings peeling off. I also started using KT drilling and tapping fluid from Murdochs or TSC or similar, and it really helps. Drilling by hand is always tougher as many drills are hard to manage slow speed, and its tough on the motor as it will overheat quickly without air flow for cooling. Using the drill press on the slowest setting whenever possibly is really nice.

[Trevor?]

I enjoyed This Old Tony's drill bit sharpening video. Quite a bit of Why along with the How. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r8oORR6jyh8

Also, are those exhaust clamps made of stainless steel? It tends to work harden easily which may explain why you went through so many bits. When drilling stainless it's even more important to keep the speed down.

[speedkills]

I haven't been watching them lately but I have really enjoyed This Old Tony's videos. It wasn't the clamps themselves I was trying to drill out, it was the bolts which had corroded into place so strongly they were basically welded into the clamps. To remove the exhausts originally I had just cut the bolts off as there was no way they coming out, but then when I wanted to put them back on I tried to drill the old bolts out so I could re-use them. In the end replacing the old clamps was much easier, but the tips on drill bit speed and sharpening will still prove useful in the future.

[speedkills]

One more NSFW pic. The portal vendor didn't have installation instructions so they borrowed a G-Wagon from a friend and are making an install video for me. Here is a shot from that process, fully installed except there is a weld on brace to the axle that of course they didn't install in the process.

https://i.imgur.com/5F6nTqu.jpg

[TDash]

wow this is going to be exciting, what have you been practicing to learn welding with?

[speedkills]

Just metal I have around the house but I don't have the confidence to weld on the axle so I'll take it to a professional for that. They said no problem driving on the road without the brace as long as I take it easy to get to the welding shop.

[Schmitty]

Just throwing my $0.02 in here... I used a metal specific bit and lubed the drill spot with used gear oil I have left form the last diff change, turning the bit at a slow enough rate to watch the curls form. Like buttah.

Speed kills the drill bit.

https://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=52171&d=1626888744

[jayson44]

let's get practicing, Shane!

J.

[speedkills]

I'm getting surgery on my left hand this Friday, I won't be joining any runs or updating the build thread for a month or so according to my doctor but I'll be back soon enough.

[Tom]

I'm getting surgery on my left hand this Friday, I won't be joining any runs or updating the build thread for a month or so according to my doctor but I'll be back soon enough.
That makes you a no for the red cone run right?

[Jim]

Best wishes for good result!

[TyTheJeepGuy]

Wow good luck!
Not trying to judge here but its important to save these things for the off season y'know?

[speedkills]

I asked the doctor if I could wait until winter to do the surgery. He said my choice, but that recovery time tends to be about the same as time left untreated. Waiting 4 months for the surgery sounded nice, 4 months more recovery time sounded less nice so I said let's do it and he got me scheduled in under a week so no complaints there.

[Tom]

Bummer. Hoping for the best results possible.

[Jim]

He said my choice, but that recovery time tends to be about the same as time left untreated. [...] he got me scheduled in under a week

By the doc's logic - recovery is under a week!! WOOT!! Let's wheel !!


;-)

[speedkills]

It shouldn’t be bad. I’m thinking 3-4 weeks off. If I can’t handle it you’ll find me in ride planning threads begging to ride shotgun.

[TDash]

good luck Shane!

[Rocrawlr]

Take care my friend! Wishing you a speedy recovery!

[Java]

Sorry to hear that. Hope your recovery is fast and full!

[speedkills]

Surgery went well. Doc said it will be about a month until I can get back to wrenching.

https://i.imgur.com/4q8sda8.jpg

[Tom]

Good to hear. Ouch!

[Jim]

Thanks for the good news update.

Heal well.

[Trevor?]

It looks like you're giving a thumbs-up. Here's to a speedy recovery.

[speedkills]

My hand isn't good enough to do major mechanical work yet but I did a tiny bit of electrical today, installed an aftermarket window module in my driver door to allow the window to do the auto-up thing as G-Wagon's only have auto-down but no auto-up until 2018. It's a small change but makes it feel a little more modern.

[Jim]

Windows? Solid Windows? Solid, POWER Windows? LOL


What was needed - some sort of jumper on a module or replace the module with a newer version?

[speedkills]

I had to splice an aftermarket module inline to the motor and power. It just passes power through normally unless it detects I hit the window up button twice within a second or two, then it rolls it all the way up. Just an extra little box I zip tied to the stock window control module.

[speedkills]

Stock module

https://i.imgur.com/fsmY5ms.jpg

Aftermarket module

https://i.imgur.com/pMkw9KR.jpg

I tried out these solder seal connectors for the first time, pretty convenient.

https://i.imgur.com/KnME8IT.jpg

[RockyMtRebel]

I should have called you when my Jeep went electrical haywire 🤣

[speedkills]

Definitely, I mean it wouldn't run any better, but at least you could roll the windows up and down.

[FINOCJ]

Windows? Solid Windows? Solid, POWER Windows? LOL


He should be happy he has doors...

[speedkills]

Shoot, I'd be happy if I had to run the trail uphill both ways like in my grandpa's day.

[speedkills]

I named my truck Grrr, so this is just perfect.


https://i.imgur.com/ohlercf.jpg

[speedkills]

NSFW


https://i.imgur.com/M5nHln0.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/wfBTMxB.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/48WFZms.jpg


Plus some CTIS parts


https://i.imgur.com/IiFUOTy.jpg

[speedkills]

My hand isn't strong enough yet to even pick these up. My neighbor Nick swung by to unload these into my garage for me. If anyone has some free time and wants to turn some wrenches this weekend I would be grateful for some help with installation. I can offer pizza, whiskey, sarcasm, and a chance to drive a G-Wagon on portals in exchange :D

[open_circuit]

Sold

[FINOCJ]

Damn...leaving town on Thurs for a week ...if the project persists beyond a weekend I am in to help.

[speedkills]

I have a feeling it will. No one step is super technical, but it's just a lot of parts to swap/install. Down to steering knuckles, plus front and rear brake systems, lines, and bleeding them. I have some 38" Toyo Open Country M/T tires on their way to complement the lift.

[speedkills]

Today was the first time I have ever bought tires so large I couldn’t fit them in the back. Will make another run to town tomorrow to get the other two.

https://i.imgur.com/NQy7ahM.jpg

[speedkills]

Trent, Nick, and Ty all showed up to help me work on getting ready to install the portals today. I am very grateful to all of you really couldn't have gotten anywhere close to this far along without your work. This wasn't a one man job, and it sure as hell wasn't a one armed man job. The biggest headache by far was the brakes, the rear parking brake lines are being difficult, I'll take a look at them tomorrow with fresh eyes to see if I can find a way to remove them, if not I'll cut the little arm off of the end instead of cutting the brake line as that is an easier to replace part and cheaper. But the rears are a walk in the park compared to the front, I don't think any of us have ever encountered rotors so hard to remove. They had rust welded (is that a thing?) themselves to the hubs so hard that at one point I tried to use a puller on them and it just cracked part of the rotor body off and left the rest stuck on the hub. This is after Trent, Nick, and Thor had picked up various sledgehammers and wailed on the rotors like you wouldn't believe. We kept scaling up until at one point Nick was doing full swings with an 8lb splitting maul and they still wouldn't budge. Plenty of heat, and the combination of a puller used to pre-load the rotor, then topped off with Thor's mighty hammer and we finally got the two rotors off. Also, you are all allowed to call Ty Thor now. We had been suspicious of his alternate identity previously, especially as his long hair was growing out, but watching that man go to work with a sledgehammer removed all doubt.

I didn't take as many pictures as I could have liked as I was busy being tool gopher for everyone while they worked their asses off removing parts to prepare my rig for having the portals installed but here is where we left it when everyone ran out of steam and time.

https://i.imgur.com/6C5t5MK.jpg

[TDash]

Those 38s?

That's awesome everyone came over to help out 😀


When does the welding come into play for the portals?

[Jim]

Nice to see it moving closer!

[Java]

Nice work! Really nice of all you guys to do that.

[open_circuit]

http://i.imgur.com/bLODPtcl.jpg (https://imgur.com/bLODPtc)

Shane cut slots into his rotors so we could put these puller arms on to try to remove the brake rotor. The center of the puller is pushing on the axle.
http://i.imgur.com/bI7X0xil.jpg (https://imgur.com/bI7X0xi)

http://i.imgur.com/OznDDDgl.jpg (https://imgur.com/OznDDDg)

Portal going on the front passenger side
http://i.imgur.com/NhZnUp7l.jpg (https://imgur.com/NhZnUp7)

Ty about to swing his mighty hammer to try to remove the front driver side brake rotor
http://i.imgur.com/4wam44Dl.jpg (https://imgur.com/4wam44D)

[open_circuit]

https://youtu.be/W_vL3QO3Gak


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXcKBbN37Wk

[speedkills]

After a night of sleep I woke up realizing I just needed to punch the pin out that was being a pain on the rear brakes, a light tap and the emergency brake cable came right out. It seemed obvious in the morning but by the time we got to it yesterday I think we were all too tired and maybe the pizza and whiskey was slowing our mental faculties down.

Nick came over again today to help me out for a couple of hours with the heavy lifting, he finished installing the new steering knuckles and then split the portals open for me as that was something I didn't have enough strength in my hand to do. With Nick, Thor, and Trent taking care of the disassembly for me and Nick helping prep the portals I spent the rest of the day working on the rear

I got the drivers side rear assembled up to putting the hub on and the passenger partially assembled. Called it quits before I finished the passenger side as my hand was done, can't wait until it's a bit stronger. I'll keep plinking away at it through the week. Once it is finished I will have some triangulation braces that need to be welded on but they are strong enough for street use so I will be able to bolt them on, drive down to town and have someone weld it at their shop before taking it off-road.


https://i.imgur.com/RRRZ4Qm.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/q7X3dWG.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/l8idnUK.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/Lio988Z.jpg


One thing I am not sure if matters, but the stock axle has some splines going into the rear diff, then a gap of about an inch with no splines, then more splines. This axle doesn't have the gap in the splines.


https://i.imgur.com/fqvcKdV.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/4ceP1Vg.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/szvCdoc.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/satm2TN.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/9nLpCPw.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/VUX4YjV.jpg

[Jim]

That's the money shot I was looking for! Nice.

[jayson44]

so freaking cool!

J.

[The StRanger]

Damn... that things gonna be a beast ....

[speedkills]

I got the other rear portal installed today. Ran into a snag with the fronts, I'm new to king pins and it turns out that I am supposed to do a procedure with the new housing over the kingpin to center the housing/bearings with some shims. I'll try to see if I can find some in town Thursday.

[speedkills]

Got the rear brakes on. They are a fair bit larger than the original rear brakes and don't use drums for the parking brake, although the parking brake is still mechanical which is neat. One front portal is installed, at this rate I might just get the wheels on over the weekend. I was able to locate the seals for the front knuckle I needed, but still wasn't able to locate any shims so I will need to deal with the shimming of the knuckle bearings later, hopefully I won't damage them too much in that time but if so I don't mind replacing a couple of sets of 10 year old bearings.


https://i.imgur.com/yZKocVT.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/xSTIOUl.jpg

[speedkills]

Got the portal braces welded on and took Grrr out for a shakedown run today, even with the speed sensor issue unsolved I wanted to make sure everything else felt good offroad. Zero issues so far, feels pretty much like it did before, just now I can take absurd lines that I would never have attempted before.


I wanted to check for any clearance issues so went to my local flexing rock I use a couple of miles from my house, I usually drive up it until I feel a wheel starting to lift but this time, no wheel lifted. I wasn't expecting that. Not sure if I am getting more flex, as in the axle is turning at a sharper angle due to the extra width increasing leverage, or if I am just getting a wheel up higher because the track width is longer now. Here it is with 35" tires on, I'll put the 38" wheels on next weekend hopefully.


https://i.imgur.com/ew41PCA.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/GjmTuEu.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/xZk3KZr.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/quEk5OU.jpg

[RockyMtRebel]

Bad Ass

[jayson44]

damn!

J.

[Max]

Imgur is blocked on the network I'm on a lot of the time, so this thread is kinda boring lol.

[TDash]

Imgur is blocked on the network I'm on a lot of the time, so this thread is kinda boring lol.

sounds like your network is the boring one!



the build is looking great Shane!

[speedkills]

Got 4 of the 5 Tibus beadlock wheels I ordered today. Not sure what the story is there but I emailed the vendor to find out. Those are some serious work to install, unlike the Hutchinson's they don't have 3 studs that are longer to help get the bead starting to come together. This means without some means of squeezing the two sides together you are going to have a hard time patching or swapping a wheel in the field. If I had to I think I would end up having to lay the wheel under my truck, then place a jack on top of it to press the top down onto the studs.


Overall though, I'm very happy with the assembly process, they just really should have put the 3 longer studs in. I'll probably try to pickup a few clamps to stick through the holes in the wheel and help pull the face close enough to start threading the nuts onto the studs.


Only had strength in my hand to do one tonight, but over the next few days I'll get the rest of them together.


https://i.imgur.com/NYvSfet.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/nNh9fS1.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/valQh1a.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/Wk9BsYP.jpg

[speedkills]

https://i.imgur.com/GSP7xtO.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/Uf7swfF.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/jwNuBrV.jpg

[jayson44]

yes! Post Office Crawler of the year award! :bowdown:

J.

[speedkills]

Once I finished in the dark, I decided I would settle for any good source of light :D

I need to head to Boulder to get the tires balanced Friday, the tires are terribly out of balance, just driving on pavement at 20mph feels like I'm on washboard.

[speedkills]

There is definitely more rubbing that I had hoped for. When I am done with these tires I'll likely go with 37". They told me the kit was designed for 38.5" tires, I am running 38" tires (37.7" actual size) Yet still there is a fair bit of rubbing on all four corners. I don't think it's enough I would take these 38" tires off and sell them, but doubtful I'd purchase another set unless the larger fender flares really do fix everything up. Either way, for the next month or two until they arrive I am going to be making some rubbing noises on the trail. Not an issue around town though which is nice.


https://i.imgur.com/8N4GdMf.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/AvrdQxJ.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/UECM64Q.jpg

[FINOCJ]

Can always use some bump stops or limit straps if desired to stop the rubbing.

[speedkills]

I considered bump stops. How could I use limit straps for that?

[speedkills]

I'll see how terrible it is at Kelly Flats Saturday, if it really annoys me I'll definitely look into doing something about it.

[Jim]

Let's start the chant...

chutes... chutes... CHUTES... CHUTES...

[speedkills]

Have you seen what the chutes did to my silver Rover? I'm going to pass on that one for now.

[speedkills]

I got the big vote of approval from my wife, she said after seeing today's pics "Funny how after all of that work it finally looks like it was always meant to be this way".

[RockyMtRebel]

I can’t wait to see it in person!

[FINOCJ]

I considered bump stops. How could I use limit straps for that?
I am assuming its solid axle (to the portal gear reduction ends of course). Limiting how far one side can droop with a strap will also limit how far the opposite can come up. If it only rubs at full stuff, which generally cannot occur on a solid axle without the opposite drooping, then limit straps can help. If it rubs at more moderate spring compression, such as when both ends are compressing springs, then the straps won't help - only bumpstops will do - but if that is the case, then you probably have more significant issues than just 'a bit of rubbing,' such as just too big a tire for the lift, or too soft a spring. If its IFS, then never mind on any of this...

[speedkills]

Thanks for explaining that. It is solid axles, so I think that would work.

[Java]

Looks GREAT!! :thumb:

[TDash]

When I am done with these tires I'll likely go with 37"

https://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?28740-selling-4x-BFG-KM3-37-quot-R18 getting pretty close to ordering my new bead locks and 40" tires, will be getting rid of these when i do. I have an actual tire tread depth tool now i could show you a picture when i get my truck back if you have any interest

[speedkills]

PM me when you get them. I'm loving my 35" KM3s, that might be the way to go.

[Max]

Shane is a madman! I saw this thing in person. It's humongous! It's awesome! Haha. You just have to laugh. It makes my Jeep look small.

[speedkills]

It makes me chuckle every time I get in it. It is absurd in the best way.

https://i.imgur.com/jqRiueU.jpg

[Jim]

Hold on a second...

WOOFgang... Bakery??? and Grooming.

Sure, WOOFgang Grooming. I can see that. Now toss in Bakery? No thanks, I don't care for dog hair being baked into my cupcakes.

[speedkills]

Maybe it’s one of those places that bakes dog treats? I’m not going in to check.

[TDash]

not sure if Jim was joking or being serious but that's exactly what it is, they make dog treats for people who like to spoil their dogs on a whole other level

[Jim]

I was serious - it just didn't equate. Eventually I searched on the name and saw them as baking dog treats.

I could see that as a positive place to take a dog who did not like being groomed - the smells of good stuff once the grooming is over.

[speedkills]

Mounted my spare tire today. I still don't have my 5th Tibus wheel from GFG but got tired of having a spare tire only in the back taking up space so I had a tire shop mount the 5th tire on an old non-beadlock wheel.


The mount came with zero instructions but I managed to figure everything out after staring at it for a bit.


The hardest part was drilling into the existing hinges, I had to convince myself that this metal part was definitely a template for drilling.


https://i.imgur.com/LUNJirq.jpg


Installed the main support which ties the two existing hinges together and carries the bulk of the weight for the spare instead of putting it to the hinges via the door.


https://i.imgur.com/ISg0uIu.jpg


There is an additional block of steel on the back of the hinges to reinforce them a little.


https://i.imgur.com/2r7OtCb.jpg


Next I pulled the stock mount off and replaced it with the new door support.


https://i.imgur.com/NAnP0Ye.jpg


Then I washed my truck, and put the main support arm on, plus the plastic guide/support on the door. The white plastic wheel here appear to be made of a tough plastic similar to what a cutting board would be made out of, and has a cone in the center to guide the tire support arm into the correct placement when I close the tire against the door.


https://i.imgur.com/UYAK9eV.jpg


The tire support with centering cone.


https://i.imgur.com/LC55Yya.jpg


Lifting the tire into place wasn't as bad as I thought it would be.


https://i.imgur.com/IbVmKKU.jpg


Almost done. Once you close the tire against the door there is a large bolt that secures it to the rear door.


https://i.imgur.com/Xnf6aiI.jpg


Bolted on the hinges for the tire cover.


https://i.imgur.com/0EYA4PE.jpg


Then installed the rear lock as I was running out of light.


https://i.imgur.com/Nq5c9QR.jpg


I'll need to align it a bit tomorrow, the part that attaches to the door is slotted to allow some adjustment up and down and I think I need to raise it up just a bit. Hard to tell precisely how much as my truck leans to the right anyway, but that's an issue for another day.


I'm not sure if the carbon will grown on me or not, I'll leave it on there for a while and if I don't start to like it more will probably shoot some plastidip or black paint on it.

[FINOCJ]

I'd be inclined to just skip the tire cover entirely....

[speedkills]

I might, want to see if it proves useful first. Was thinking of maybe keeping my tow rope and a couple of shackles back there.

[jayson44]

looks great, Shane! I'll be over this week to check it out in person. I finally got my 4Runner back from the wife. we found her another Jeep to replace the one that was totaled.

J.

[speedkills]

Small update, I took James advice and removed the rear cover. I might try to do something with it someday but for now I wasn't feeling it. I also got my onboard compressor working well. It had been running for a minute or two and cutting out, I traced it down to a voltage drop caused by the 250 amp circuit breaker I was using so I removed it. Out of habit I tend to put a fuse or circuit breaker on everything I install but I am starting to see why people don't tend to do that on large motors like winches, or in my case my compressor. Next up I have a small air tank to install, it's only a couple of gallons as I just don't have a lot of room underneath for an air tank and don't want to take up room inside for one. Worst case if I find the small tank is an issue in the future I can revisit the decision but for now I figured I would start small and see if that is good enough.

[speedkills]

Forgot to mention Ty swung by my place and helped me straighten out that tire carrier, it doesn't sag down anymore like in the picture above.

Made some progress on the CTIS this weekend. Don't have everything mounted up but did a functional test, it's pretty cool.


Pressure shows in bars, not my first choice but I don't mind too much. There are 5 presets I can adjust or air up and down manually per wheel or axle. Pretty fun to just select a setting and a few minutes later have the tires all adjusted correctly for me.
https://i.imgur.com/yNanOKq.jpg


Still missing the centercaps on my wheels, GFG is trying to get them for me from Tibus. Parts on those wheels are a nightmare, if you buy them buy spares in advance.
https://i.imgur.com/Fkg7gAB.jpg


Single wheel test, all four at once is slower of course.

https://youtu.be/06NdB6ckb1g

[speedkills]

Fender flares showed up


https://i.imgur.com/uCBhUJf.jpg

[jayson44]

when are you working on those? I've got a free night tonight...

J.

[speedkills]

Sometime next week, but we could try to work on your sliders if you want.

[jayson44]

hmm, interesting...I do have all day tomorrow with no plans until 8pm...

J.

[speedkills]

I dropped my truck off at Hoover Mercedes in Parker, CO to get aligned and to finish up some projects I haven't had time to get around to as time is running short before I trip I have planned to CA to see family. Very impressed with their shop.


He replaced the stock rubber units with poly bushings, the rubber units were 10 years old and torn in multiple places, maybe front the articulation without the sway bar. I'm not always a fan of poly bushings as they can squeak and reduce ride comfort but in my application with the extra leverage coming from the portals I thought they made sense to tighten things up as much as possible.


https://i.imgur.com/D9OI6Zm.jpg


Hoover also fabricated a nicer mounting bracket for the Fox damper. The Eurowise bracket that came with the Fox damper hung down way to far, I think it was designed to show the damper off by having it hang low where it could be seen from the front. This solution allows me to run the stock damper as well and if I find it is too much it's only a couple of bolts to remove it. He also installed some adjustable track bars I had and new tie rod ends while he was in there.


https://i.imgur.com/fb2jKrx.jpg

[speedkills]

The front track width was an inch or so narrower than the rear, which I didn't love but wasn't an issue until I installed the CTIS, then I realized that the air port actually stuck out an inch too far on the front as well. Werewolf suggested I put some 30mm wheel spacers on the front and this made everything line up perfectly. Still waiting on GFG for the center caps and spare tire, and still waiting on the sliders.


https://i.imgur.com/fF7jf7p.jpg

[speedkills]

I had Hoover put the sway bar back on when he installed the poly bushings since I am planning on putting a few thousand highway miles on and between the two it really drives nice on the highway now. Will see how much impact it has offroad in a week or two. With the extra height of the portals the sway bar makes a bigger impact so if needed I'll do some pins for a quick release or some other solution but I think I'll leave it on for pavement use now.

[FINOCJ]

The front track width was an inch or so narrower than the rear,

That is pretty strange in a modern vehicle...most everything build over the last 40+ years has a slightly wider front track than rear to help with tighter corning and handling....is the oem g-wagon set-up this way, or was it a result of the portals?

[speedkills]

It was the portals. I think they tried to keep them as narrow as possible, and they were able to make the front narrower than the rears due to the brake configuration, but I prefer them the same track width, fixed now.

[speedkills]

Doing some reversing of the protocol on canbus C today. I want more information than I can get on the ODBC or chassis can-b so finally found a good point to access can-c and got to work. First up, where can I find CAN-C (powertrain canbus)? On my G55 it is near where your left calf would be if you were in the passenger seat, lower part of the center console.


TLDR, if you aren't interested in can bus you might just want to skip this post.


https://i.imgur.com/VvHi9V0.jpg


I rarely have an excuse to twist a pair of wires but when I do and use my drill to do it I always get a silly satisfaction out of it. There were two spare ports available in the can bridge so I went ahead and put two wires in, one to my AIM Sports PDM32 dash/power distribution unit, and one to my laptop so I could sniff the bus and see what messages were being broadcast on it.


https://i.imgur.com/a6nxlVf.jpg


For sniffing the can bus I am using a TouCan device, I don't know anything about these but it does everything I need at the moment.


https://i.imgur.com/4psoEpI.jpg


I used some connectors I happened to have laying around the house that fit, but don't lock in like the correct connectors Mercedes uses do. I'll swap out to the correct connectors before I button everything back up.


https://i.imgur.com/h2mnuOW.jpg


This got me to a point where I could see the messages streaming over the bus in real time while fiddling with controls. I was most interested in initially just doing a proof of concept, making sure I understood how everything worked and could decode trivial messages so today I decided to just try to figure out how to decode the shift lever position. Once I was seeing the can data stream by I started moving the shift lever around and kept noticing message id 230 popping up, and luckily it was one of the smaller messages, only one byte. Smaller is better for me since I have no idea what I am doing, I figured that would make it easier to figure out how Mercedes is encoding the data. I saw the number 8 while sitting in park, and while I moved the shifter around it changed from 5-13 so this encouraged me to see if I could get it displayed on the AIM unit.


https://i.imgur.com/bLA2Dm3.jpg


Unfortunately AIM only supports ODBC data for my G out of the box but they also have the capability to do custom can bus protocols, you just have to supply them. Well crap, here goes nothing.


Documentation is slim but I was able to stumble through adding a new message to the custom can protocol, I set it up to read message id 0x0230 and just convert the full byte to an integer then display it on the dash. To make it easy to see what was going on I setup a simple dash display and set the center-top section to display the data read from the can bus.


https://i.imgur.com/9uLlJtP.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/34KfTnI.jpg


At this point I was pretty excited, it actually worked, I was able to move the shifter around and see the cell update on my PDM in real time. Only click the youtube link if you have 7 seconds to spare watching me move a shifter around.



https://youtu.be/vI-zw_0Ugw0


As I did this I wrote down the values shown in the different positions and realized that I was only seeing values 5-13, which for anyone familiar with binary means you only need 4 bits, not the full 8 to transmit that information. Time for round 2 of PDM configuration changes, this time I told the PDM to only read the first 4 bits and then to map each value to a text string, so instead of 5 show D for drive for example.


I updated the decoder, added some friendly output mappings and gave it another go. If I do much more of this I will likely try to just make a DBC file by hand and import it into the program so I can store the code on github or something, it was pretty tedious doing this all in a GUI.


https://i.imgur.com/7HnVh3L.jpg


And now I can display the gear selector position on my PDM. It's not much, but even this I think I can use to hook up paddle shifters once I swap my steering wheel, I'm hoping I can just intercept the paddle presses and then drop a message onto the can bus identical to what is generated when pressing left or right on the shifter to make the paddles work. I also want to dig in further in the coming months and pull out some data I would like displayed that I don't currently have access to, trans fluid temp, stuff like that.


Here is a 7s video of my final result, I move the shifter around and you can see N, D, -, +, etc on the display as I move the shifter.



https://youtu.be/SM2jbZrMMPU


I likely won't do too many updates like this unless someone expresses interest as I realize I'm getting further into things interesting to programmers than your average car enthusiast.

[Jim]

COOL - I'd be curious for updates.

[Java]

Paddle shifters! This is the most unpredictable build thread ever. :thumb:

[Jim]

Paddle shifters!

Voice command is next... Kompressor UP / Kompressor DOWN

and then

Kompressor 8 PSI

Kompressor 34 PSI

[speedkills]

I first had paddle shifters in my old Range Rover and unexpectedly fell in love with them. They are super fun in the canyons and faster off-road sections. I need to swap my steering wheel anyway to get rid of the wood on this one which I really dislike, and the one I found on ebay from a Mercedes car had paddle shifters so I figured I might as well try to hook them up. I have various useless buttons in the cabin too that I could hookup to other functions if I can figure out what messages they send on the canbus network, which seems fairly straightforward now if a little time consuming.

[speedkills]

I'm taking off for a trip to California to see family in a few days and dropped my truck off at Hoover Mercedes to have the headers installed as I have had my fill of exhaust work for the year. While they were at it I had them weld on my exhaust sliders which came with a u-bolt to attach to the frame that didn't look nearly strong enough to my eyes and install some wider fender flares.

I asked them to do an articulation test to make sure there was no rubbing with the new flares and they sent me this hilarious video in response.


https://youtu.be/gAdmOEU8YBQ

[FINOCJ]

Your tire was definitely contacting some sheet metal when flexing....

[open_circuit]

Typical Mercedes driver

[speedkills]

They put the headers on for me which I didn't want to touch.

https://i.imgur.com/bA3djcW.jpghttps://i.imgur.com/T55Y8Ll.jpg

[speedkills]

I took off the old footsteps, and installed the brackets for the rock sliders, then let Hoover weld the slider frame mount on as I didn't think the u-bolt that came with it was going to be strong enough of a mount. They had to swap back to my smaller/louder exhaust at the same time as the sliders wouldn't clear the stock mufflers.

https://i.imgur.com/mtedERP.jpghttps://imgur.com/a/ipkFSIY
https://i.imgur.com/ifEC8p1.jpg

[speedkills]

Then test fit the new fenders for me. I didn't like the way they hung down so low below the bumper so I asked them to cut them off at the same angle.

https://i.imgur.com/nszfmhR.jpghttps://i.imgur.com/WMgRlmO.jpg

[TDash]

omg that articulation video is hilarious


fender looks good too, i need to have some similar last minute shaving tomorrow to eliminate some rub

[jayson44]

nice!

J.

[Rocrawlr]

No RTI ramp? No problem! :lmao:

[speedkills]

That actually is a Saab RTI ramp. Swedes are just odd I guess.

[speedkills]

I had some rubbing when I got my rig back from the shop, Scott helped me identify the contact points and 30 minutes with a cutting wheel and some flat black paint and no more rubbing.

Another funny thing I realized only after getting my truck back, the stock exhaust manifold is crap. I know they are not wonderful on many cars, but in this case I think it might be the same manifold used on the non-supercharged model. I had never inspected it closely and now I see why I am feeling such a bump in power, the stock units are doing a little false advertising and downsize the exhaust pipe right before joining the manifold which I hadn't noticed before. I'm going to keep my foot out of it until I get a tune on the truck for the headers as this looks like enough of a back-pressure change between cylinders that I worry I could run the end cylinders lean under boost.

https://i.imgur.com/2dj0MiZ.jpghttps://i.imgur.com/0wGfPp9.jpg

[TDash]

Any news on the heat from the floor?

[speedkills]

I had all of the floor insulation pulled back to get to some wiring under the carpet. I think that stuff just does a really good job and I hadn't realized how warm it can get without it.

[speedkills]

Packing up for a holiday trip to California today but I took a short break from packing to try to figure out how my locker switch works so I could remove it and integrate it with my power distribution module, if possible.

Here is what I came up with:


Pin 1: Hot
Pin 2: Hot when in low range
Pin 3: Ground
Pin 4: 7v when no locks requested, .5v when any locks are requested
Pin 5: Jumpered to Pin 1, Hot
Pin 6: Ground
Pin 7: Unused
Pin 8: 7v when no locks engaged, .5v when any locks engaged
Pin 9: Hot when center lock requested
Pin 10: Hot when rear lock requested
Pin 11: Hot when front lock requested
Pin 12: Hot when center lock disengaged, .5v when engaged
Pin 13: Hot when rear lock disengaged, .5v when engaged
Pin 14: Hot when front lock disengaged, .5v when engaged


So overall this should be easy to emulate with my pdm, the one bit I am missing right now is something that can output .5v or 7v to signal if the lockers are engaged or requested. Not sure how to do that at the moment. If it was just 7v I could do a 12v to 7v step down converter, but the fact that I need to switch between two voltages makes it a little trickier. I'm sure there is a component out there that does what I need, just don't know what it is called at the moment to search for it.


The voltages when the lockers are engaged vs disengaged is a bit surprising to me as well, I didn't expect the 12v to .5v high/low type signaling but then again I have zero electrical background so I may be misunderstanding the system.

[speedkills]

Someone on another forum explained to me why pins 12, 13, and 14 are 12v, then go to .5v when the lockers are engaged, it is because they go to ground when the lockers engage and I am just picking up a little bit of stray voltage going through the volt meter to get to ground.

[speedkills]

Not really build thread material, but days like this are why I built this rig so I'm posting it up anyway.


https://i.imgur.com/UuDKzsv.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/NMI3bCc.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/LrqbOVg.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/R30Wk8w.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/G7BjsGu.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/wKMt44L.jpg

[jayson44]

Switzerland? I was out there this morning with the kids...just cruisin through Gordon and Switz.

J.

[speedkills]

Gordon Gulch.

[jayson44]

Gordon Gulch.

thanks for plowing for us! :D

J.

[speedkills]

Finally got around to installing the leather steering wheel I picked up on ebay for $150. what a difference, I wish I had this months ago. I dislike any wood in a car's interior, but the wood on the steering wheel was the worst since I actually had to hold it for hours on end. I wonder if many people prefer the wood wheels to leather or if it's just for looks?


https://i.imgur.com/xv7hqUZ.jpg

[FINOCJ]

I am all for good wood....

[speedkills]

My palms get sweaty just looking at that wheel.

[speedkills]

I had to remove the 5 gallon air tank I had installed between my frame rails, it ended up rubbing the driveshaft at full compression.


https://i.imgur.com/o1u9euD.jpg


I put a 2 gallon tank I had on instead, then mounted my air solenoids near the tank and ran larger 3/8" internal diameter lines to match the 3/8" solenoids. This really made airing up and down faster, airing down now is limited by the rate air can exit through the two 3/8" exit ports, and the speed my compressor can pull air in front it's 3/8" intake I think. Initial airing up from the tank is super fast, but that runs out in 5-10s so it isn't large enough compared to the tires to do much but for small adjustments of a couple psi it's only a few seconds, after that I'm on the compressor and it slows down to a more normal speed, but still goes from 0-35psi in all four 38" tires in 5 minutes which is slower than I'd like, but good enough.


When my truck got broken into they stole the spod I was going to use to control the solenoids, for now I just stopped by a low-rider shop and picked up an old school switch box used for air-bags and I'm liking it. Eventually I'll program a touchscreen interface to replace my locker switches and have that control air bags too so I can just select a pressure and have it air up or down until it hits the preset, but at the moment I'm having fun with the switch box so I may leave it for a few months.


I also hooked up individual pressure sensors and put them on my auxiliary display, then set my power distribution unit up to turn my onboard compressor on when I hold the DSC off button for 3 seconds. I'll probably switch this to just turn once the engine has been running for a few seconds eventually but I haven't yet learned how to decode rpm on my canbus which I need to do so I can determine if the engine is started. This works for now though, I hold the button for 3 seconds then I enable the compressor and show "compressor: ON" on the dash, plus the 4 individual tire pressures. The separate pressures per tire is nice as before they were all interconnected and would self-level to the same pressure but I prefer to run the rear tires 10-20% higher pressure than the front.


https://i.imgur.com/qAmQulX.jpg

I'm going to raise the water separator up a few inches, I don't like how low it sits right now but I'm happy with the general location.
https://i.imgur.com/vCVldXa.jpg


Air solenoids and tank before installing air lines


https://i.imgur.com/FdWl3hX.jpg


This makes getting quickly to 2psi easy which is what I use to get in and out of my garage. At 2psi I think this almost qualifies as a half-track.


https://i.imgur.com/WJCD3P4.jpg