I (also) bought a TJ [Archive] - Front Range 4x4 Forums

Steve-O

May 18th, 2021, 09:41 AM

Gotta ask...you keeping the YJ?

Only for the time being. There are a few more things I want to accomplish with it (AKA, parts in the garage I actually want to put on it). But probably by fall I will be looking to sell it, as I really don't have the room for a third Jeep -- currently have my Cherokee and YJ out on the street in front of the house. You interested in reliving your YJ glory days? :cool:

Smart buying an already modded rig. You just saved yourself a ton of cash and picked up a nice toy.

That was the calculus I went through. The amount of time/money to get the YJ where I really want it would be crazy, and it would still be limited by the 4 banger. At that point it just made sense to buy something modified and the sell the YJ. It's going to be interesting having a lift, big tires, lockers, winch, and 6 cylinders now :lmao:

Already bought a stimulus checks-worth of parts for it. Currie Currectlync tie rod/drag link and JKS adjustable track bar going on this weekend. Already got some Fox 2.0 performance shocks on her! Other than that it's really not going to need much (obviously), probably just a basic tune up/fluid changes.

51849

FINOCJ

May 18th, 2021, 10:02 AM

But probably by fall I will be looking to sell it, as I really don't have the room for a third Jeep -- currently have my Cherokee and YJ out on the street in front of the house. You interested in reliving your YJ glory days?

Nope, I am already one jeep over my allotment...Finishing the 58 is a priority if for no other reason than to say I did it and enjoy it for a bit, but not sure how I will be able to keep both the 58 and 70 as is...I think YJ's make a great base for building a great trail rig (if leaf springs are acceptable). I sold my 4cyl YJ for a 6cyl cj7 back in the day just to get more power - but it was a DD that I also wanted to run 33s on. Back then, it wasn't uncommon to see a 4cyl YJ with 35s and super high CR that would be a great trail rig - but would be a trailer rig mostly (I remember one featured in JP magazine specifically). I almost feel like my cj5 is becoming just a trail rig (or maybe my tolerance for driving it a lot around town or on the hwy etc is decreasing) - planning a week of old iron early cj5 group run based out of Leadville in Aug and thinking of towing the cj to the basecamp in Leadville instead of driving it - its only a couple hour drive but its also easier to bring the camping gear and some extra parts/tools etc with the truck if needed for evening repair work. Maybe I am just getting old...

Steve-O

May 18th, 2021, 10:25 AM

I sold my 4cyl YJ for a 6cyl cj7

I would take that deal in a heartbeat. Because the TJ doesn't need much work, and despite what I just said about having too many vehicles, I was actually considering selling/trading the YJ for some kind of older project car to have mostly as a hobby. A guy near me was selling a CJ-2A in pretty nice shape and I almost went for it. Been looking on Craigslist for anything older than me with a manual and 4WD...

thinking of towing the cj

Nothing wrong with going the tow/trailer route in my opinion!

Steve-O

May 20th, 2021, 09:51 PM

I'm not one to shame anybody, but I love poking fun...dang Matt, that was one dirty @$$ air filter :lmao:

51871

Got it all cleaned and re-oiled :thumb: really nice Volant cool air intake that makes the engine roar!

51872

Jim

May 20th, 2021, 10:49 PM

You found an instant 10 horsepower! :thumb:

JandDGreens

May 21st, 2021, 05:05 AM

O man we need to get out and test out your new found horsepower!

RockyMtRebel

May 21st, 2021, 07:11 AM

Lol.... nice job on the air filter! I cleaned it once, a couple years ago..... my son didn’t do anything when he had it! If it wasn’t such a pain to remove I would have done it more often!! Steve, that Jeep has a good home now ;)

Steve-O

May 26th, 2021, 10:59 PM

Currie Correctlync tie rod and drag link went on without much trouble. The JKS adjustable track bar was a different story. When I finished everything Saturday I was going to drive it over to the alignment shop. I was wiggling the tires back and forth on the floor of my garage and heard a loud POP followed by the sound of metal clinking along the floor. The frame mount end of the track bar has a Johnny joint which completely blew out sending the snap ring and the washer behind it flying :mad: I went to the TJ forums and found only one person who had a similar experience, but he had had it on for 3 months. I put the old track bar back on, drove it around the block, no issues. So I just hoped it was a defective part, maybe the snap ring wasn't seated perfectly? Got a free part exchange (thanks Amazon), put it on tonight, drove around the block no issues. Alignment shop next week. Overall not bad for my first time doing front end work.

Blown out JJ
51890

Scattered washer and snap ring 51891

All together now
51892

TyTheJeepGuy

May 27th, 2021, 11:31 AM

Nice, I just put on those same Fox 2.0 shocks. I love them so far.

Steve-O

June 19th, 2021, 05:53 PM

Found this nice little present under the TJ courtesy of the towing company AAA sent. However he chained up the underside of the truck tore the boot on my front Tom Woods driveshaft to pieces. I've pulled the driveshaft so I can figure out what to do. The two pieces of the driveshaft don't just slide off each other (unless I'm missing something) so replacing this boot would be impossible in this case, there's no way a new boot could fit over the ends without ripping

Tom

June 19th, 2021, 07:00 PM

Damn

Jim

June 19th, 2021, 08:41 PM

I'd contact the towing company for a claim.

My take: The driveshaft likely slides apart for easy boot replacement.

Steve-O

June 19th, 2021, 09:08 PM

Yep, I've gone through AAA because they contract out the towing and are ultimately responsible. They took all the info down for my claim and said "we will call you".......

Well, I tried pulling the two pieces a little and it definitely has some sort of catch at its max extension. Not many blog/forum posts on the issue, only advice I found was to pull it harder...going to call Tom Woods on Monday and see what they say. I'd rather have a driveshaft with no boot than a driveshaft broken into two pieces :lmao:

FINOCJ

June 19th, 2021, 10:01 PM

The driveshaft likely slides apart for easy boot replacement.

I would also expect it slides apart, but there is some little trick to it....as you say, contact Tom Woods and get the details. Maybe they will send you a replacement boot.

TjMike

June 22nd, 2021, 09:39 AM

Nice looking TJ and congrats on the buy!
Sucks the towing company messed up the boot but the drive shaft does separate. Just give it a good pull. I believe I have an extra one laying around if you want it, boot intact ;)

Schmitty

June 29th, 2021, 10:18 AM

Congrats on the TJ! Oof on the drive shaft! We'll have to wheel soon.

Steve-O

August 30th, 2021, 11:08 AM

I never closed the loop on this story, TjMike and others were correct: "just pull harder"...driveshaft came apart fine, regreased the splines and replaced the boot. Bought a cheesy CV joint boot clamp tool and couldn't get it to work, just went with zip ties so hopefully they hold up.

In other news, I have this "slow filling" issue which apparently is common with TJs/LJs in this time period, '03-'05 I think. Apparently there are some bandaid fixes but the video posted in the thread below fixes the true root cause. Anybody have a transmission jack I can borrow? Seems like it makes dropping the fuel tank way easier. Maybe a motorcycle lift would work if it went high enough?

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/problems-filling-fuel-tank.1506/

Java

August 30th, 2021, 11:22 AM

I did this on my LJ, I was lucky because the LJs have enough room behind the filler to do it without dropping the tank. It helped, but not with filling; it stopped it from overflowing when it was full. Filling seems to be more about the angle, depth and flow rate of the pump I'm using. https://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?17986-TJ-LJ-Gas-Overflow-Fix

I have a scissor type transmission jack and the type that fits on a floor jack, you are welcome to either or both.

TjSteveA

August 30th, 2021, 10:46 PM

I have a motorcycle jack you could borrow. I’ve used it to take my transmission out and to drop my gas tank

Schmitty

September 3rd, 2021, 02:15 PM

If you need extra hands lemme know.

Steve-O

September 5th, 2021, 08:35 PM

Thanks for the offers guys! I was able to get after this this morning and had kind of an odd experience. Dropped the tank, pulled the fuel pump, reached in to pull the valve thing and it wouldn't budge. It also didn't feel like what it looked like in all the youtube videos I watched on this

And that's because it wasn't the same

52311

52312

I don't know if I goofed up the model years when researching this, or if some work has been done here and this is an aftermarket valve. Regardless, I couldn't get it out, it's one big piece of plastic that goes up into the other white piece of the plastic that connects to the filler hose. In the second picture I'm pushing the spring-loaded plunger down with my other hand.. I removed the filler hose to investigate the top of the valve and plunger

52313

Duh, but this also doesn't look like it did in the videos. The plunger was sticking a little bit right at the top of its motion, as expected. All I could do was rotate the entire valve, which also rotated the opening on how the gas flows into the tank. The opening was facing to the right, as shown in the photos above, I rotated it 90 deg CW so the opening in straight down now. It appears to take some of the pressure/friction off of the lipped part of the plunger, and my hope was gravity would be able to help the situation a little more as the gas flowed straight down into the tank.

Well, believe it or not, it worked (for now). Went to the pump and was able to set it on the highest notch to fill up, and it clicked off as it should when full without a drop being spilled. Who knows how long that will work but it's nice to be able to fill up in a normal amount of time now :lmao:

Thanks to Paul for letting me borrow his transmission jack, worked like a charm

Steve-O

September 12th, 2021, 02:39 PM

Another small project to take The Beast "from happy to glad". I realized the second speed on the fan didn't work.. 1, 3, and 4 worked fine. Figured it had to be the blower motor resistor. $25 on Amazon...

52329
52330

Remove glove box, undo footwell light for extra clearance, unplug harness, undo two screws on resistor card and wiggle it out. Reverse the process and done. Just a pain to work in such a tight area, almost had to get a neighbor kid to help me :lmao: glad I paid extra for the Mopar part, don't want to do that again anytime soon...

Steve-O

September 18th, 2021, 09:13 AM

I started the Jeep today to head out wheeling and the Check Gauges light came on. Turned it off. OBDII scanner said there's no code (probably because the CEL didn't turn on?) But the key three times in acc trick revealed a P0523 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch High Voltage. I checked the dipstick, oil level was actually a tiny bit high. I let some out so the level is right in the middle of the "safe" zone. Restarted, same gauges light and code, this time I also noticed that the oil pressure gauge was at 0. Turned engine off. I did the gauge diagnostic test (hold trip odometer reset button and turn into acc mode). It ran through it's tests and the oil pressure gauge moved when tested. The electrical harness to the oil pressure sending unit, harnesses to the ECM, and other things in that area all look fine

I'll be honest I don't really know what the gauge diagnostic test *exactly* does/shows. Because the gauge moved, does that mean I definitely don't have an electrical issue? What's the diagnostic path from here? Just go ahead and replace the OPSU? The internet also mentions external oil pressure tests...should I do that before or after replacing the OPSU? If there really was an oil pressure problem (as opposed to just a sending unit problem) I suspect I would have gotten a real CEL as well, not just the Check Gauges light... Thanks for your help (as always)

RockyMtRebel

September 18th, 2021, 09:25 AM

I seem to recall this happening to me before on one of the tjs. I removed the oil pressure sending unit, cleaned it all up and reinstalled and it was fine afterwards. If I recall it was super easy. I may have replaced the sensor at some point or just cleaned it up, can’t remember

Trevor?

September 18th, 2021, 10:50 AM

The gauge diagnostic tests the function of the gauge in the instrument cluster. There could still be a fault with the pressure sensor or the wiring.

open_circuit

September 19th, 2021, 02:28 PM

This is the first thing that came to my mind

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/what-is-the-opda-and-do-i-need-to-change-mine.80/

Trevor?

September 19th, 2021, 05:11 PM

If its like my 1999 then the ECU may make the oil pressure gauge indicate zero to bring your attention to it even though the code indicates that a reading is too high. I once had my alternator fail, which caused a "check gauges" light and my voltage gauge to fall to zero. The voltage was definitely not zero.... it just was not high enough to charge. The ECU indicated zero because I probably wouldn't have noticed the difference between 14.1V and 13.5V and wouldn't know what gauge to look at otherwise.

Does the 2004 model year 4.0 use an oil pressure sensor or a pressure switch? My 99 uses a 3 wire sensor/transducer. The 2004 service manual doesn't seem to be consistent. It shows a 1 wire device in the electrical diagram but in another section it describes a 3 wire 5 volt pressure transducer.

If it's a 3 wire device then based on your descriptions I think a faulty sensor or wiring problem is more likely. They're designed to output somewhere between 0.5 to 4.5 volts when they are reading a pressure, but if they break they should go all the way to 5V or 0V so the ECU knows there is a sensor fault. That P0523 code seems to align with that.

If its a 1 wire device then its most likely a pressure switch. They only indicate pressure above or below a threshold. When they fail they are either stuck open or stuck closed. The ECU probably notices if the switch is closed when the key is on but the vehicle is not yet running.

First I would put the key in the run position but not start it. Back-probe the sensor and see if its reading close to 5V (or maybe battery voltage if its a switch). If so that's a bad sensor or that wire is shorted to 5V. If you unplug the connector, probe that wire and its still 5V then its the wiring. If it drops back to 0V then it's the sensor.

It might also be worth trying to unplug the sensor connector and plug it back in. I used to get a ton of these back from OEMs with nothing wrong with them. Fretting corrosion on the tin terminals would result in a thin layer of tin oxide that would wipe away once you unplugged it and plugged it back in, and if that happens on the ground terminal that could result in the signal terminal going to high rail.

If you pull the sensor/switch out take a look the connector cavity. If there is oil down in the electrical connector that's an indication that the seal failed inside it and its now flooded with oil. If you see little white marks that can indicate moisture getting in from the connector side which wicks along the metal terminal into the sensor and corrodes it from the inside. That would also mean you should also replace the connector on the harness as well or your new sensor could meet a similar fate.

Steve-O

January 9th, 2022, 11:48 AM

I forgot to say thanks for the responses on this one guys. Really appreciate the thorough write up, Trevor. I replaced the OPSU and haven't had any issues, I'm still curious to do those voltage tests, just haven't gotten to it...

What I did find time for was installing a GMRS radio. Midland MTX275 with their 3dB Ghost antenna. Went for the hard wire, just had to chop of the 12V outlet plug that came on the power cord. Kind of weird how short that cord was, barely made it to the other side of the cab where the fuse box is. Antenna cord on the other hand was a mile long, funny because I needed maybe a foot :lmao: stuffed the rest inside to the left of the steering column. Antenna probably could have been placed in a higher spot, but I like the look and I'm sure it will work fine. Once I fired it up I got someone on ch 21, said he was in Albuquerque via repeater. Just need to figure out where I want to mount the mic holder, probably that bit of plastic right below the vent

Trevor?

January 9th, 2022, 12:52 PM

Once I fired it up I got someone on ch 21, said he was in Albuquerque via repeater.

Very cool. If it's the repeater I am thinking of it is on lookout mountain, part of a linked system of repeaters that covers parts of the southwest, Channel 20. It would be interesting to see if you turned your jeep around so the windshield frame was to the west of your antenna if you could still hear it as well. I assume you were just listening? They run nets Sundays at 5pm and Wednesdays at 7pm. There would be a lot of transmissions at those times to tinker and listen if you are interested in doing so. On channel 21 there are a pair of repeaters that cover most of the Denver area.

https://www.frontrangegmrs.com/repeaters

Steve-O

January 9th, 2022, 01:13 PM

You're right it was Ch 20, not 21! Yup I was just listening. And it's currently parked in my garage facing west, so the windshield it to the north, I might drive around my block today at 5 and see what changes based upon my orientation

Steve-O

January 22nd, 2022, 03:00 PM

Safelite replacing the cracked windshield today! Not a bad deal, 10% off with AAA. Best part is I don't have to get up :thumb:

Steve-O

March 13th, 2022, 12:40 PM

Anybody with a TJ/LJ Rubicon ever drop the skid plate to remove the transmission? What did you do about the diff locker compressors? I really don't want to disconnect it all (2 little hoses and 2 electrical connectors for each compressor, I'm basically guaranteed to break one of the red connector locks or one of the plastic nipples trying to get a hose off). I think if I try and hang the whole assembly up on zip ties it will get it the way when it's time to pull the transmission out...

FINOCJ

March 13th, 2022, 01:57 PM

Yes... disconnect the hoses and electrical plugs...clean first and be gentle but not that big of a deal. A soft toothbrush helps clean up stuff so it easier to work the connectors free. I spray an electrical connector cleaner first...kind of like brake cleaner but won't damage plastic.

This stuff
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/automotive-rv-and-marine/fluids-and-lubrication/brake-cleaners/80882?store=15730&gclid=Cj0KCQiAybaRBhDtARIsAIEG3knX2ejMTwX_5SwjvNQV ghRh552-E7o3qLV1FN5I9nLWLoyNkJmBw1waAh55EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Steve-O

March 26th, 2022, 09:29 AM

So uh, I think my pilot bearing puller just pulled out more than it's supposed to. I believe I pulled out the pilot bushing along with the pilot bearing (left). No idea how to separate these two and my kit only came with a new bearing (right)

This is quickly becoming the project from hell. Going on two weeks now because I work 60-70 hrs a week, only have a little time on the weekends, now I've been sick the last 3 days. 🤬

FINOCJ

March 26th, 2022, 10:06 AM

I believe your flywheel is fine (a standard resurface as part of a clutch job might be needed)...those pieces are all part of the pilot bearing. It's uses a kind of weird large bearing instead of the traditional small pilot bushing/bearing like supplied in your kit.

Java

March 26th, 2022, 10:06 AM

If it was me I'd replace the flywheel with a LUK one and get a National throwout bearing with the steel cage instead of the plastic cage OEM style. I had a similar experience doing my clutch, PITA from start to finish.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GY5ZP1hXcNc

Steve-O

March 26th, 2022, 10:13 AM

Thanks for the quick replies. Ok so crown/omix sell the larger bearing/bushing thing, just ordered one and should be here tomorrow. Doesn't seem like LuK really sent me the right thing in the kit. Last question is how the new one will go in? I read your supposed to just press/tap it in dry. What's the yellow gunk on the back of this thing?

And yea Paul I regret everything :lmao: CNS Transmission did an amazing job for a good price on the YJ's clutch, not sure why I felt compelled to do this myself. I may consider the additional parts, don't really want to drag this project out any longer...

FINOCJ

March 26th, 2022, 10:29 AM

There are quite few different pilot bearings used behind the 4.0, and even in the TJ series as some different transmissions. Looks like the kit got it mixed up. A bearing would typically be lubed on the interior but pressed in dry on the outside so the outer race doesn't turn inside the flywheel recess. I'd put the bearing in the freezer, put heat on the flywheel and then drive it in.

Steve-O

March 31st, 2022, 06:45 PM

So I got the Jeep all back together, started it up and it sounds great, no rattling sound from the bellhousing. Only problem is I can't shift into any gear with the engine running. There is what feels like good tension in the clutch pedal, I have no idea what could have gone wrong. Please help me

Praying that maybe my slave cylinder decided to die while I had it out

Java

March 31st, 2022, 07:07 PM

I'd guess your slave cylinder isn't seated correctly; I'm basing that guess on the replacement ones coming with a plastic retainer on the end that you have to leave on when you install it, it breaks when you press the pedal the first time and seats the rod. IDK how you can seat it correctly if you reuse the old slave (not that it can't be done, just not by me) so possibly if you reused the old one and ofcourse didn't have a new plastic retainer it might not have seated correctly.

Steve-O

March 31st, 2022, 07:14 PM

Thanks Paul, I'll pull that put again and check. Also side note for troubleshooting, the Jeep definitely doesn't start without pressing the clutch pedal

TjSteveA

March 31st, 2022, 07:31 PM

Check your transfer case make sure it didn’t pop into neutral. Mine did that when I did my clutch and I couldn’t figure out till I looked at the transfer case rod on the body.

Java

March 31st, 2022, 09:50 PM

Thanks Paul, I'll pull that put again and check. Also side note for troubleshooting, the Jeep definitely doesn't start without pressing the clutch pedal

That's the clutch safety switch doing it's job, and just FYI there is a super simple built in bypass to that so you can start in gear offroad, you just move the fuse that's in position 19 to position 20.

Steve-O

April 2nd, 2022, 09:31 AM

Confirmed the slave cylinder is seating correctly in the clutch fork. I'm really quite certain I put the clutch disk on facing the proper way ("plateau" facing the pressure plate), but I suppose there's a non-zero probability I still screwed it up. If I drove in the pilot bearing too far, or not far enough, could this be causing my problem? Is there any reason I would need to adjust the clutch pedal after a new clutch install? I didn't think that was necessary with a hydraulic system

Also Steve thanks for that I'll check that as well.

Steve-O

April 5th, 2022, 10:02 PM

Doing some research and coming up empty. Did have a bright idea to pull the starter and take a look inside using a cheap $20 borescope. I'll have my wife push the clutch in and see if everything is moving properly. Also should be able to see if I put the clutch disk in backwards. But that will have to wait, wife and I are going to Mexico for her birthday. After that is a work trip. Hopefully I'll have the Jeep ready to go in time for Hole in the Rock in May 😅

Steve-O

June 6th, 2022, 02:48 PM

Well for anyone paying attention, the TJ is performing at 110% now. Funny story so you can laugh at me. So after the clutch wouldn’t disengage, I ordered a new master/slave clutch assembly and changed that out. No dice. I said screw it and called AAA and got it towed to a transmission shop I like. Get a call from them an hour later and they said “hey was this an intermittent problem or all the time?” I said it was all the time, I absolutely could not shift into any gear with the engine running, and she said “oh…well my mechanic is driving it around the parking lot right now, says it shifts like a dream..”

W.T.F.

As near as we can all figure, there was something just not lining up/maybe an air bubble in the clutch line, and the action of loading the Jeep up on the flatbed and driving it across town somehow fixed it. So very odd…then Nick helped me get the new T-case shift cable from Novak Conversions precisely adjusted so that works great now and performed perfectly on the Hole in the Rock trip.

Lastly, because the side-of-the-tire-carrier-mounted jerry can holder was a total fail, I had to have the can in my Jeep the entire trip which isn’t ideal. So I was in the market for a new mounting location. Didn’t want to mount it on the back of the spare tire because that’s where the trasharoo is going to go. Found this cool solution on Extreme Terrain and I’m very happy with it so far.

Jim

June 6th, 2022, 03:30 PM

Good to hear the trans is working - odd resolution - but good to have nonetheless.

Thank you for the info on the can carrier. I have two (exact?!) cans. The company has a waiting list for their out-of-stock carrier. I plan to mount in the same location.

Does the passenger door contact the can?

EDIT: this looks like the item - frame mount - interesting
https://www.extremeterrain.com/barricade-jerry-frame-mountt-j102520.html

FINOCJ

June 6th, 2022, 03:49 PM

I plan to mount in the same location.

glad the TJ working nicely....JMO, but I am not a fan of that location - its common on old flatfender jeeps (and very common on willys like my 58)....the inward/pinching towards the front angle of the front fenders helps provide more protection on the old jeeps than the vertical, parallel sided jeeps starting with the cj5. A lot of later cjs carried cans on the side of the rear quarter panel - same place the tire carrier was on early jeeps. In either case, I just think anything on the side of the jeep is super exposed to tight spaces/trees/rocks when off camber. When I think of where I have some rock rash and whatnot - its usually on the side by the A-pillar and along the rear quarter panel. Granted, I don't know if there is any 'great' solution for extra gas - I initially carried a can mounted on the rear mounted spare - but its not ideal either. If it were me, I'd still opt for something that mounted rear bumper in some way - or get a rack that hold it adjacent to the spare tire in some way (probably expensive)? Maybe not a viable solution for a TJ, but my solution was to add a second plumbed tank under the jeep so with the flick of a switch, I can pull full from either tank. Of course, the OEM tank for my cj is under the seat - which leaves lots of room under the rear to frame mount a tank. Not sure what size tank the TJ has (15 or 20 gal?), but I would guess someone somewhere makes an aftermarket larger tank - even if its only 5 gallon bigger - that is the same size as an aux can. I often rank the second fuel tank as one of the top 2 upgrades I've ever made to my jeep - plenty of fuel, no stupid cans etc.

Steve-O

June 6th, 2022, 04:26 PM

Jim: that’s the one. Yup, frame mount but no drill. I like that it’s two pieces with the trailer hitch connection, that way I can leave the can holder behind when I’m not on a long camping/wheeling trip, which is most of the time. I’ll say this about the can, the pinch joint around the outside of the can sticks out, where most go inward. It can still fit in this can holder, but you kind of have to wedge it in there. It’s definitely made for most cans that have that joint going inward. Passenger door does not hit the can, there’s a good few inches in between based on how my door straps are set

James: I appreciate your insight there. When I’m using it, the fact that it sticks out is definitely going to be a factor. My logic is that if I need to bring the can, that means I’ll be on a longer camping/over landing trip that is probably less intense trails. This logic is immediately proven wrong by Hole in the Rock sooo I guess we will just wait and see haha.

What I really wanted was a basket thing that attaches to the tire carrier and the basket rests above the tire, and then something to mount two cans, one on either side, perpendicular to the spare tire. Couldn’t really find what I was looking for so decided to try this for now

Jim

June 6th, 2022, 05:07 PM

Since I don't have any rear seating, I could see going James' route - replace my front seats with his style - with under seat tank(s). That would be a much larger project than outside mounted tanks. I might make my own brackets - bolt on to the body for the needed run and then removable. I'd mount higher. I could see making a bracket and carrying dad's water fire extinguisher much of the summer - with a mount for it (haven't had a need but it's just sitting in the garage...) when not carrying outside fuel.

Hole In The Rock, I don't think would need extra fuel - so long as the nearby marina is open. Maze District is the only trip I recall having extra fuel - and at 5 gallons (2-2.5 gal plastic cans carried inside) I was on fumes pulling into the gas station.

I agree with James that outside - on the side - is at risk of impact. Compromises all around. One could (famous words in hindsight) always remove outside tank in a tight spot and walk-the-tank 30' up the trail to a wide spot (yea, like that would happen - lol).

Your receiver hitch style mount is nice.

TDash

June 7th, 2022, 12:33 AM

How many gallons is your fuel cell Jim?

Jim

June 7th, 2022, 09:54 AM

TDash

June 7th, 2022, 10:03 AM

oh whoops i thought you had a fuel cell in the back, i must be thinking of someone else's rig

Jim

June 7th, 2022, 12:39 PM

You might be thinking of the big black "drawer" that replaced the back seats - it could easily give the impression.

FINOCJ

June 7th, 2022, 02:50 PM

Stock 1990 gas tank - 15 gal.

I could swap out to the newer (1993?) gas tank that I believe is 20 gal (IIRC it would be about 4 or 5 hundred - new purchase - unknown if I could find a junk yard tank).

Extra fuel is a rare need so, financially, I should just stick gas cans in the jeep - lol.

I'd go for the 20 gal upgrade if you have an any 'excuse' to do it - say you need to drop the old tank for some reason etc. Maybe because my OEM tank is only 10.5 gal, which is tiny, I really felt installing another tank was the way to go, as even with a 5 gal aux can, I still only had 15. Mounting the second tank gave me an additional 15 gal for 25 total, and now its never really an issue. I have the aux can rack i made for my spare tire in case I am ever really concerned (the old carb v6 isn't the most fuel efficient), but I think now its more useful to carry a 5 gal water can for some desert trips. Obviously water isn't something that has to be outside the jeep, but given the limited 'inside' space, it helps.

Java

June 8th, 2022, 03:06 PM

safety concerns aside it does look pretty cool mounted on the side, and I like the gas can color. I find gas cans to be awkward to use so I have one of these. I put the can on my hood or wheelwell and it's easy https://www.amazon.com/Gas-Siphon-Original-Safety-Grade/dp/B01MZ76L3Z?ref_=ast_sto_dp

Tom

June 8th, 2022, 03:11 PM

Steve-O

August 28th, 2022, 05:36 PM

New shoes 😎

Unfortunately I need a second job to pay them off...

Steve-O

December 30th, 2023, 01:55 PM

Well long time, no see for all of you here. As for the TJ, it has a newly rebuilt transmission as the damn thing combusted on my way back from the White Rim Road back in April. AC Transmission in Golden did the work and found pieces of exploded slider at the bottom of the case and the synchros were "ground down to nothin'". Owner is a good guy and they did a good job with the rebuild (at a good price too) but I honestly can't recommend the shop because they broke other stuff along the way which they then had to fix. Haven't been wheeling since due to multiple injuries, been in physical therapy most of this year...but I was feeling bold yesterday and a friend came over to help me put in some heavy-duty offroading ball joints, as both lowers were totally blown out. Bent the ball joint tool in the process so that POS is going back to Amazon :lmao: Looking forward to getting back out on the trials this spring/summer. Happy New Year!

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