A/C Compressor to Onboard Air [Archive]

Chris

March 6th, 2009, 09:20 AM

Parts list:
Square D Pressure Switch, 90-125 psi Grainger #5A537
Air Pressure Gauge, 0-160 psi Grainger #1X754
Speedaire 4ZL57 Miniature Micromist Lubricator
Speedaire 4ZL08 General Purpose Miniature Air Line Filter
K&N Mini Air Cleaner

After receiving the Speedaire parts I found they were drop-shipped from Grainger so all parts could be ordered from them instead of 2 sources as I did.

When tank is added I'll be using these
Safety Valve, 150psi Grainger #5A709
Check Valve, 150psi Grainger #5X780

An assortment of 1/4" NPT brass fittings, clamps, hoses

This is converting the use of the stock Toyota compressor. I know many people prefer York but you can't beat the fact that it's already installed and mounted.

The pressure switch is the manifold, nice compact setup with 4 connections of which we used 1 for the output, 1 for input and 1 for the gauge. The 4th will be used when I add an air tank. It's attached to the firewall providing good access, switch wiring, ground and easy installation.

The oiler is in the input line to keep the compressor lubricated while the filter is in the output to remove water. These in an easily accessible spot along with the on/off switch which are all mounted by my air filter. The K&N mini filter is tucked away behind the windshield washer tank. Test running shows everything working perfectly and the pressure building surprisingly fast. Real use operation to come.

I think the pics show everything pretty clearly.

Brody

March 6th, 2009, 04:03 PM

We hooked it up so that it just runs off the compressor at the moment, much as I had mine set up after I lost the tank space (above and below) from bobbing the bed. I have since set mine up to use the double tank set up found on a lot of Hitachi and similiar style compressors since I had a crapped out Hitachi sitting around.

The tile guys on my last job bought a new compressor and gave me their old one, same double tank set up. I took the compressor apart to see if I could get it to work with no luck. I stripped the bad compressor off this AM and ran the double tank set up down to Chris. The way it is now, he can run a male/male fitting hose from the AC compressor to the tank and air off of that, leaving it a portable unit or hard mounting it at a later date.

The size of the double tanks is a little under 5 gallons, but they are fairly compact.

Funrover

March 6th, 2009, 11:08 PM

Cool!

Chris

March 15th, 2009, 06:23 PM

Added the tanks Pete gave me today, thanks Pete! Nothing too sophisticated about running a hose to detail. Works fine so far, spent some time chasing leaks but think it's leak-free now.

My only tip is to observe for developing leaks a bit of a distance. Not real cool to be hovering close when one goes. :eek:

Funrover

March 15th, 2009, 08:03 PM

Can you post pics of the air compressor set up.. I think I might do this to my Rover... It's all there with low r-12 and I never use the A/C Also what did parts run you?

Chris

March 15th, 2009, 08:21 PM

Did you see post #4? :confused:

Funrover

March 15th, 2009, 10:38 PM

My mistake.. I answered the question I had..... and I didn't see the actual compressor but it doesn't matter. How does it do airing up tires and such? I am thinking I might do this

Chris

March 15th, 2009, 10:56 PM

Chris

March 15th, 2009, 11:33 PM

Funrover

March 15th, 2009, 11:36 PM

How much PSI will my A/C go I wonder?

Chris

March 15th, 2009, 11:41 PM

Good question and something that would be needed to know. Toyota's put out 100psi + or -

That pressure switch I listed is great for Toyota's but it should not be assumed it would be good for all trucks. It's set to go on below 90psi and shut off when the pressure reached 120psi.

Brody

March 16th, 2009, 05:39 AM

The actual compressor is the stock a/c compressor. I haven't tried it yet because I cut up my air hose to use for the install. :lol:

I'm not sure why yet but as soon as I turn the compressor off the pressure drops to zero. I guess that's why I have a check valve to install but didn't yet, couldn't bring myself to go to Ace a third time today. BTW, it looks like their compressor section may have everything that's needed too.

The reason it drops to zero is that the only air storage that you have is the amount of hose that you are running off of the compressor. If you had a tank, it would show x amount of pressure and stay there. As it is, the compressor fills the air lines really fast, then shuts off.

Aaron, you can expect almost any AC compressor to put out between 80-120 psi. Chris' compressor puts out more than mine, though both are Toyotas. York compressors (found on damn near anything American with an AC) tend to put out 100+psi and have a better lubrication system, eliminating the inline oil mister necessary on the Toyota AC units. All of the AC units work on the same principle: intake, output, cooler, then whatever the hell it is called under the dash that makes it cold (how's that for tech talk?). All you need it to filter the air coming in and oil the air going through your AC so it doesn't overheat. Anyway, Rover AC compressors can't be any different...just way more expensive than a York ($20-35 at most junkyards), so you might want to think about adapting a York..

PM if you need input or help.

Chris

March 16th, 2009, 08:36 AM

The reason it drops to zero is that the only air storage that you have is the amount of hose that you are running off of the compressor. If you had a tank, it would show x amount of pressure and stay there. As it is, the compressor fills the air lines really fast, then shuts off.

See Post #9 Pete - I installed the tanks.

Brody

March 16th, 2009, 12:21 PM

Did you watch your air flow arrows when you installed the anti bleed back switch? This is the only thing that I can think of that would cause this. Almost all of the air fittings like this are strictly one way and should be marked with an arrow showing flow.

Let me know if this helps.

Chris

March 16th, 2009, 12:53 PM

Figuring it was a closed system I didn't install the check valve. The gauge at the tank shows pressure but the one at the manifold doesn't. I'll add the check valve and a new guage when I get a chance. That should solve the problem and perhaps even show similar pressure at both locations.

4runner freak

March 16th, 2009, 04:41 PM

Parts list:
Square D Pressure Switch, 90-125 psi Grainger #5A537
$36.15 Grainger (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/5A537)
$33.36 Drillspot (http://www.drillspot.com/products/121215/Square_D_9013FHG14J52X_Air_Compressor_Pressure_Swi tch)

Air Pressure Gauge, 0-160 psi Grainger #1X754 Discontinued
Alternative $8.40 Grainger (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/5WZ22)
$7.73 Drillspot (http://www.drillspot.com/products/73349/Generic_5WZ22_Pressure_Gauge)

Speedaire 4ZL57 Miniature Micromist Lubricator
$36.20 Grainger (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4ZL57)
$36.20 Drillspot (http://www.drillspot.com/products/40782/Speedaire_4ZL57_Miniature_Micromist_Lubricator)

Speedaire 4ZL08 General Purpose Miniature Air Line Filter
$23.57 Grainger (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4ZL08)
$23.57 Drillspot (http://www.drillspot.com/products/43380/Speedaire_4ZL08_General_Purpose_Miniature_Air_Line _Filter)

K&N Mini Air Cleaner

After receiving the Speedaire parts I found they were drop-shipped from Grainger so all parts could be ordered from them instead of 2 sources as I did.

When tank is added I'll be using these
Safety Valve, 150psi Grainger #5A709
$6.96 Grainger (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/5A709)
$6.40 Drillspot (http://www.drillspot.com/products/40512/Control_Devices_ST25-150_Asme_Air_Safety_Valve)

Check Valve, 150psi Grainger #5X780
$13.16 Grainger (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/5X780)
$12.11 Drillspot (http://www.drillspot.com/products/50781/Control_Devices_CB25_Check_Valve)

4 Port Manifold Grainger#4158 by Pneumadyne, Inc M10-125-4
$19.68 Grainger

One Way Check Valves:

http://images.grainger.com/B355_38/images/products/100x100/Compressor-In-Tank-Check-Valve-6X213_AS01.JPG (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/CDI-CONTROL-DEVICES-Compressor-In-Tank-Check-6X213)http://images.grainger.com/B355_38/images/view_larger_button.gif (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=air+check+valves&op=search&Ntt=air+check+valves&N=0&sst=subset#)

Valve,Check,1/2x1/2in (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/CDI-CONTROL-DEVICES-Compressor-In-Tank-Check-6X213)
Item # 6X213 (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/CDI-CONTROL-DEVICES-Compressor-In-Tank-Check-6X213)
Compressor In Tank Check Valve, Inlet 1/2 Inch Compression, NPT Outlet (M) 1/2 Inch, Hex Size 7/8 Inch, Length 2 7/8 Inches, 450 PSI Maximum Pressure

http://images.grainger.com/B355_38/images/msds_20.gif (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=air+check+valves&op=search&Ntt=air+check+valves&N=0&sst=subset#)

CDI CONTROL DEVICES (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/cdi-control-devices/ecatalog/N-1z11e65/Ntt-air+check+valves)
C5050-1EP
$10.87 Grainger

http://images.grainger.com/B355_38/images/products/100x100/Compact-Check-Valve-6D917_AS01.JPG (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/CDI-CONTROL-DEVICES-Compact-Check-Valve-6D917)http://images.grainger.com/B355_38/images/view_larger_button.gif (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=air+check+valves&op=search&Ntt=air+check+valves&N=0&sst=subset#)

Valve,Check (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/CDI-CONTROL-DEVICES-Compact-Check-Valve-6D917)
Item # 6D917 (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/CDI-CONTROL-DEVICES-Compact-Check-Valve-6D917)
Compact Check Valve, NPT Inlet (F) 1/4 Inch, NPT Outlet (M) 1/4 Inch, Hex Size 11/16 Inch, Length 1.44 Inches

http://images.grainger.com/B355_38/images/msds_20.gif (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=air+check+valves&op=search&Ntt=air+check+valves&N=0&sst=subset#)

CDI CONTROL DEVICES (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/cdi-control-devices/ecatalog/N-1z11e65/Ntt-air+check+valves)
P2525-1WA

$7.87 Grainger

An assortment of 1/4" NPT brass fittings, clamps, hoses

Here are links(Click the $$) to the parts! From Grainger and Drillspot.
Grainger $104.32, $124.44 w/ tank
Drillspot $100.86, $119.37 w/ tank
+K&N Air Cleaner and the assortment of 1/4" NPT brass fittings, clamps, hoses.

Chris

March 16th, 2009, 06:41 PM

Well done Danny! Drillspot orders are drop-shipped from Grainger. ;)

4runner freak

March 17th, 2009, 08:51 AM

Well done Danny! Drillspot orders are drop-shipped from Grainger. ;)

And they are cheaper?? Undercutting their supplier.
Nothing like bitting the hand, huh!

Chris

March 23rd, 2009, 02:36 PM

I finished this up this morning using the air tanks Brody gave me. Quite simple, ran an air line from the manifold to the tanks in the back of the truck using a check valve. Attached an air hose coupler and pressure relief valve to the tank along with a new gauge.

Ran the compressor for maybe 4-5 minutes, shut it off and the tanks are holding better than 60 psi. When I get a chance I'll see how high I can get the tank pressure - the compressor puts out more than 90 psi, probably closer to 110.

Brody

March 23rd, 2009, 05:30 PM

Looks good! Now I know why I left the mounting stand attached like I didn't do with my set!
Makes for a real easy mounting set up...don't know what I was thinking when I removed the stand from mine....

Chris

March 23rd, 2009, 05:39 PM

Yep, just chopped off the long feet and used a u-bolt through the frame between the tanks to the body brackets. Nice to take advantage of your experience. ;)

Funrover

March 23rd, 2009, 08:33 PM

Coming along nice!

4runner freak

March 24th, 2009, 01:10 PM

Brody

March 24th, 2009, 01:15 PM

I'll ask at the place down the road from me that rebuilds them. A lot of time, the compressors aren't even worth rebuilding and I bet they have some tanks kicking around. I am going down that way tomorrow AM and I'll check...The Hitachi style tanks that both Chris and I are using have a very narrow profile and will fit into a pretty small area. This is what I am going to look for, but I'll see what else is around, too.

4runner freak

March 24th, 2009, 01:16 PM

Chris

April 6th, 2009, 11:43 AM

Photos added back in earlier posts. Apparently they were lost when I moved to the new server.

Thanks for letting me know Danny!

Funrover

April 6th, 2009, 11:46 AM

So.. How did it do airing you back up on China Wall?

4runner freak

April 6th, 2009, 01:10 PM

So.. How did it do airing you back up on China Wall?

He forgot to bring an air chuck:D

Chris

April 6th, 2009, 02:19 PM

He forgot to bring an air chuck:D

:lol: But I did have it ready and waiting on my work bench in the garage :lol:

It works pretty well, up to 30 lbs it's great but then is pretty slow. I have to find a tank leak...

4finger

December 15th, 2010, 08:04 PM

hey Chris )or anyone that knows)

i am looking into doing this mod- i found your write up a long time ago and signed up so i could ask some questions. do you still have/ use this system? did you like it? what was wrong with it (if anything)? what other parts (if any) did you add later? did you use the factory switches or did you add a toggle to run this system? any suggestions over whats in your write up? ive read through this write up many times but i wanna see the answer as a reply to my post--- this is for a toyota right? i have a 3.4 in mine and im gonna ASSUME ( i know dont do that) that everything should be close to the same.

im looking at starting this mod and am gonna use your parts list and want to make sure if i pick this stuff up at our local grainger that im getting the "right" stuff.

thank you sir

Chris

December 15th, 2010, 08:17 PM

Hey Thomas, it is a great mod but I sold my Cruiser a few months ago. I used it regularly with little problems and all the part numbers should be the same. I highly recommend it and guess the 3.4 comprssor is similar, check the output - mine was 160 psi which is comparable to the much acclaimed York. The oiling system is critical, I burned one compressor out when I didn't check the oiler before using it but that's the only problem I had outside of a few hoses popping off during the trail period. I used a toggle under the hood so I would remember to turn it off when done.

It's not as fast for airing up as CO2 but it's always there and doesn't need refilling. That being said I'll turn this over to Pete (Brody on the forum) because he really did the whole thing in the end as I helped by handing him screwdrivers and such. :)

Brad

December 15th, 2010, 09:28 PM

Pete has the same rig on his heap if you need to check it out first hand.

4finger

December 16th, 2010, 09:29 AM

Thank you Chris.
im not to worried about the speed- as long as it could fill my 39's with out destroying the truck or destroying my battery im fine. im getting a little annoyed at these iroks (at crawiling pressure) changing lanes for me wether i want to or not. at least 10 times a mile. i have friends with compressors but i feel if ive got a compressor too then im that much more of a help on the trail. i have a small ARB copressor for just my lockers, and to make that purchase legit and to save a little cash (over buying a different compressor) plus having it this way is kinda different idea (around the clan i crawl with) so itd be nice to do it this way. and it seems like fixing a couple of hoses on my A/C unit would cost the same and i havent had A/C since ive had the truck so i wont miss it. id like to have it but i crawl with tube doors and no topper soooooooo............

ill wait for "brody" to chime in before i go out and get the parts. i just wanted to make sure this was a good setup and that you didnt change any part because of size limits or burn ups. (knowing about the compressor issue you had mentioned) like the seperator- ive heard if you buy one you gotta get one rated for high temp. now when you say check the oiler is it a self contained system or do you need to check the "level" all the time??????? is it like a constant mister or do you need to fill/check it during operation? (sorry for my noob type questions, just wanting to hit the high points)

im reading pirate now to see how to hook up the factory dash switch to make it work, im adding a tank and pressure switches to have it turn on and off when it needs to. at least thats how i see it in my head. but having an instant use switch and switch on as i need it then off i eliminate a few unwanted issues later. so im still planning.

thanx chris

4finger

December 16th, 2010, 09:31 AM

Pete has the same rig on his heap if you need to check it out first hand.

id love to look into it. does he happen to live close to Junction? if not does anyone know of someone in Junction with this setup?

scout man

December 16th, 2010, 10:06 AM

A few things. I have a similar satup on mine. It is done with a york, so I dont need an oiler, but its the same concept. What I did was run it through 5 gallons or tanks, and a pressure switch. It turns on at somewhere around 100 (i think) and turns off at 125. I could have run it higher, and kind of wish I would have, but this was the switch i could find, so I used it!! I used a lighted toggle in the cab, and I also wired an idiot light from the switch to a very obvious location so it is very challenging to leave it on when I dont mean to. You can also hear it compressing which helps with that issue. The other thing I did was take a seperate electrical feed from the pressure switch to another idiot light in the cab. What this does is let me turn it on when I am getting to the end of a trail, and plan on using it soon, and it will start charging. While it is charging, it give me the second light to know what is currently happening. When the light turns off, I know the tanks are fully charged and ready to use. I am able to run air tools of mine with no problem, and do so very commonly. I would definitely do this mod over again!!!

I think I had a fairly decent writeup on mine somewhere, but I cant seem to find it on here anymore. :mad:

4finger

December 16th, 2010, 10:40 AM

i like the idiot light idea. i was looking into finding a way to make the tank pressure switch turn off the A/C compressor when it fills up, it seems like more work (not really harder just more) so the minimalist approach seems better.

as for adapting a york into my truck unfortunately (not really, its kick a$$ having this much power) i have a 3.4 in my truck and the engine takes up almost all of my free space so a york would require major fabbing. or so it seems. plus im about to lose what little free space i do have by adding coolers, lines, and a bigger resevoir for my hydro assist. id like to have a york to eliminate the oiler but .................

scout man

December 16th, 2010, 10:49 AM

not trying to push the York. It just happened to be stock on my rig so it was easy. I am sure the Yote one will do just fine as well.

The pressure switch really isnt had at all, or much work. I think I finally found mine at Ace Hardware. But all you do is plumb it into the air line, then your toggle for your air goes through. the switch on the way. WHen thetank is full, it turns off, when below x pressure, it turns on. I would not do OBA without a pressure switch!! Its just too much hassle. My tank will refill 4 or 5 times while I am filling tires. If it didnt have the automated switch I would have to climb in, wait for it to charge, then turn it off again (so it doesnt over charge and blow up), then run it down again, etc. It was worth the $20 (or whatever) switch.

Brody

December 16th, 2010, 11:15 AM

Here is the link to the FR thread on OBA: http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?5054-On-Board-Air-Installation-Articles-and-Links

More information than you will ever need to know.

The Yorks work better, but you also have the mounting holes for the set up on your 3.4L. If you already have the compressor, your are 3/4 of the way there. Stick a small breather on the intake line, plumb in an inline oiler, adapt the other line (hose to hose works better than trying to fine the right fittings) to the output line and run it to a multiple outlet port, either pre made or just use standard brass fittings. The multi port also allows you to plumb in the cut off, an overfill valve, and a gauge for air. Take the AC on/off line and run a switch and power to it and plumb this under the hood, adding an idiot light if you want it. ANY pressure switch will work for your cut off switch, but remember that there are adjustable and non adjustable pressure switches. A non adjustable one will cut off at 80psi, whereas an adjustable one you can set up to about 120psi.

The multiple port fitting is nice as it lets you plumb in a fitting to the front and a fitting/tank in the back. Keep in mind that if you don't have an oiler with a healthy drip rate for the Yota AC, it will burn up the first time you use it. The way I have mine is with a 5 gal tank in the back with an inline on/off which is nice as it lets me fill my tank up pre run with a regular compressor, run the air from the tank or bypass the tank altogether. There is a separate fitting on the front and on the back for ease of access.

There is an outfit that works on small compressors here in town and they trash the tanks and pretty much anything attached to them. You can pick up a tank with all the fittings and sometimes a pressure switch for around $10. I am sure there are compressor repair places near you that do the same thing. These guys in Denver, just stuck all the tanks in the back of the shop outside as they had no other use for them. Since I posted there stuff and told other people about the cheap source of tanks, they are happy to be moving some of these.

Brad

December 16th, 2010, 11:37 AM

I am planning a OBA system utilizing 2 Audi Allroad air pumps and one of the tanks Pete mentioned.

BTW. Pete, one of these days we need to gtg and go over how to plumb and where to mount this set up on the Rover.
Will need your expertise again. ;)

Brody

December 16th, 2010, 11:48 AM

Sure, Brad, no problem. Try to find a place where you can mount a tank, then the right sized tank and the rest will fall into place. The tank placement is kind crucial as that takes up the most room.

Brad

December 16th, 2010, 12:25 PM

What size tank do you recommend? I was thinking the double barrel size is optimum but may not have enough room for one that big.
I will put it in the air and take some pics.

scout man

December 16th, 2010, 01:25 PM

adapt the other line (hose to hose works better than trying to fine the right fittings)
i fully agree with this/

A non adjustable one will cut off at 80psi, whereas an adjustable one you can set up to about 120psi.

an 80psi non adjustable will cut off at 80 psi, but they make a lot of versions of this. a 120 psi non adjustable will cut off at 120. 80 IMO is a bit low. You end up limiting yourself a bit.

There is an outfit that works on small compressors here in town and they trash the tanks and pretty much anything attached to them. You can pick up a tank with all the fittings and sometimes a pressure switch for around $10. I am sure there are compressor repair places near you that do the same thing.

I forgot. At last years anniversary run I won a free tank coupon from them. SInce I already had a tank, I have not used it. Free to anyone who wants it!!

What size tank do you recommend? I was thinking the double barrel size is optimum but may not have enough room for one that big.
I will put it in the air and take some pics.
this depends entirely on where you put it and how much room you have! I run a 2 barrel tank, with 2-2.5 gallon tanks. Works great for my use, and fit great into the space that I had. You could even seperate these and run them in 2 different spots if you needed too, or whatever works best for your rig!!

4finger

December 16th, 2010, 01:36 PM

I forgot. At last years anniversary run I won a free tank coupon from them. SInce I already had a tank, I have not used it. Free to anyone who wants it!!

lemme be the first noob to be the scrounge. what kinda "free tank" are you talking about. if its one that can be mounted in the truck of mine (like a 2 1/2 gallon cylinder one mentioned before) and can be used/delivered to Junction (the tank itself) i would like to be all over it. PM me info and ill take a look into it. THANK YOU

im thinking of mounting a tank between the frame rails in the back of my truck. kinda the normal place to put a tank on the yotas. if its small enough to fit in what campartment area i have leftin the back ill take it also.

scout man

December 16th, 2010, 01:42 PM

what I have is a coupon to go pick through their compressor junk yard and pick the one you want. You would have to go pick your own, and it depends on what they happen to have available that day.

Brad

December 16th, 2010, 01:51 PM

I may pick one up pretty soon as I want to have mine done before moab. I can take some pics of what they have and post them up if you like Thomas! :thumb:

Chris

December 16th, 2010, 01:56 PM

This reminded me I have a compressor I pickef up from Sean sitting in my garage that I need to look in to using on my new truck. I sure wish the search here was better so I could find his post so I knew what I have!

4finger

December 16th, 2010, 02:01 PM

what I have is a coupon to go pick through their compressor junk yard and pick the one you want. You would have to go pick your own, and it depends on what they happen to have available that day.

I can take some pics of what they have and post them up if you like Thomas!

aahhh ok. i have no plans on being out that way or even having some of my buddies out that way any time soon. so id rather that coupon go to someone who could use it and is closer. thank you very much for the opportunity. both of you guys. i like this community over here- if this was pirate, id be on page 56 of a bunch of guys telling to go *&^$ myself. and in many different ways.

4finger

December 16th, 2010, 02:08 PM

Im about to go through the link above that Brody gave me. i was wondering if anyone knew off hand what brand or model or whatever the A/C compressor is on a toyota 3.4L engine?????

i can go look for it but i was looking to see if there was a quick answer. (i dont mind doing hard work- but i will take quickies too....Insert giant cheezy grin emoticon here.)

Brad

December 16th, 2010, 02:16 PM

They are not that expensive, would probably cost me more to meet up to get the coupon rather than just buy one. ;)

I pretty much just stick to this forum for 4 wheeling in CO. Have read plenty of the others and decided this one is more
for me. More like family. :thumb:

4finger

December 16th, 2010, 02:28 PM

I pretty much just stick to this forum for 4 wheeling in CO

i think thats what i will do too. i use CO4x4 and Lunatic4X4 for colrado. Lunatic has more Leftern slope guys on it but everyone is friends so they just make phone calls to each other, so that forum is usually dead.

nicer than Pirate and closer than Marlin so......

:smokin:

4finger

December 16th, 2010, 03:21 PM

hey brody i read on your link that a yota conversion/installation is just like a york AND YOU NEED TO ADD AN OILER. i saw this link at the bottom and it said york and jeep and was wondering--- can i use this one????? it has an oiler in the diagram also. i looked i have a denso(???) A/C in the truck. this diagram "looks" like the pictures in Chris' installation so im thinking ill be ok. just wanna get a few other's suggestions and what not. every one chime in. i know its a noob question. im trying to get all of those out so i dont have them building up inside

scout man

December 16th, 2010, 03:27 PM

CHris ran an oiler with his, so my guess is you will need to as well. To the best of my knowledge the york is the only compressor that has its own oil reservoir. Even at that, I still need to add oil from time to time (although shockingly rarely)

4finger

December 16th, 2010, 04:03 PM

im getting the oiler part. i guess when it comes to that im worried of hooking this all up and doing a test run and melting things cause i didnt have the oiler set right. i see it that the input comes from a filter left out in the engine bay. that piece marked "oil drip" is just an oil seperator right? (just verifying my thoughts). does it need to be a certain temperature rating? so the oil or air going through doesnt melt the internals. whats the drain like on a seperator? just flow onto the ground or is it like on a semi air tank-- push button drain air? or do i need to get one that seperates it then feeds it back? or is that something i can do as i see and is not a certain one to make this work. the manifolds thing i can just buy one that has 1 input and at a few ouptuts (for the rest of the parts)----- id like to talk about the safety valve. thats on of those things that are like ona compressor that has a little ring on it that you pull out to realese the air whenyou done- (its also set to a pressure to do a little blow out when it reaches limit)?????

4finger

December 16th, 2010, 04:56 PM

I may pick one up pretty soon as I want to have mine done before moab

If you get it done bfore your moab trip and im not done with mine would you be willing to stop for lunch in Junction and let me ogle your setup? PPPPPLLLLLLELEEEEEEAAAAAAASSSSEEEEE

Chris

December 16th, 2010, 05:13 PM

Speedaire 4ZL57 Miniature Micromist Lubricator

That's the oiler, set it full open for testing and IIRC that's where it should stay.

Brody

December 16th, 2010, 05:21 PM

im getting the oiler part. i guess when it comes to that im worried of hooking this all up and doing a test run and melting things cause i didnt have the oiler set right.

Most of the oilers have an adjustment on them that allows you to set the drip rate. I have mine set so that it drips about once a second.

i see it that the input comes from a filter left out in the engine bay.

Yeah, one of those cheapo little valve cover air cleaners works really well.

that piece marked "oil drip" is just an oil seperator right? (just verifying my thoughts)

Should just be a part of the inline oiler as it has a drip setting.

does it need to be a certain temperature rating? so the oil or air going through doesnt melt the internals.

I have just used mid grade AC oil that I get at NAPA and it works fine.

whats the drain like on a seperator? just flow onto the ground or is it like on a semi air tank-- push button drain air? or do i need to get one that seperates it then feeds it back? or is that something i can do as i see and is not a certain one to make this work.

I think you are making this more complicated than needed. You have an inlet and an outlet line on your AC. Run a line to the filter with the oiler in that line. No need to do anything else except set the drip rate. These Yota units need oil. The outlet line goes to the manifold where you can plumb to your heart's content.

the manifolds thing i can just buy one that has 1 input and at a few ouptuts (for the rest of the parts)-----

Watch where you buy these as you can find them for under $20 or over $40 and they are the same thing.

id like to talk about the safety valve. thats on of those things that are like ona compressor that has a little ring on it that you pull out to realese the air whenyou done- (its also set to a pressure to do a little blow out when it reaches limit)?????

Correct. Probably not an essential piece, but it is nice to know that other stuff isn't going to go if you space leaving the compressor running. An idiot light to the switch isn't a bad idea. I actually have an idiot light I am installing in mine very soon. Just a junk small trailer light that will turn on when the switch is on.

4finger

December 16th, 2010, 05:26 PM

got it. and its on my list as soon as i feel confident enough to start this. that piece goes inline between the input/air filter and the input of the A/C compressor. im also wondering what the piece called "oil drip" is in the diagram. im wondering if that is supposed to be a seperator. the piece on the output line of the compressor before it goes into the manifolds. im asuming so, so you dont put oil in your tires or tank or whatever you use it for.

4finger

December 16th, 2010, 05:32 PM

I think you are making this more complicated than needed.

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA, you know me very well- are yousure we havent met. as i typed that i thought " these guys are gonna laugh at you mister over thinker.

another thing brody---- this is an ok diagram to use right? this one has better pictures (haha they see how you roll now thomas)

Brody

December 16th, 2010, 05:51 PM

I have run a bunch of York compressors and didn't use any kind of an oil drip or oil separator. There is a plate with four bolts on the top of most Yorks that allow you to take it off and fill it with AC oil. The Yorks are stout units and I think I only added oil to one York in my life after filling it one time. I have had Yorks set up for air sources on 10 or more rigs, too. The Yota one is the only whiner when it comes to REALLY needing oil.

There are better and more clearer diagrams out there. This one seems a bit overly complicated, so I can see why you have questions. I will get you where you want to be, but, like I said, there are better diagrams. My Yota system, as well as Chris' on his FJ60 were really simple affairs, much like I described.

Brody

December 16th, 2010, 06:20 PM

No diagram, but here is a quick and dirty with parts list:

http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/271674-convert-fj62-c-oba.html

4runner freak

December 27th, 2010, 09:34 AM

No diagram, but here is a quick and dirty with parts list:

http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wa...j62-c-oba.html

Here is Chris' OBA thread here on FR4x4
http://frontrange4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4145

and a parts list with links to Granger and Drillspot
http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?4145-A-C-Compressor-to-Onboard-Air&p=26760#post26760

scout man

December 27th, 2010, 11:20 AM

that "oil drip" would be the oil seperator in my best guess. Pete is right, no need for an oiler in a york, but you do on your yota. I DO run a filter after my york to seperate the oil back out. This should also pull water out of the line. Now, I dont think mine is working, as I have never drained anything out of the filter, and the tank seems to be full, but thats another story. Now to go weld a drain bung into the tanks...

Brody

December 27th, 2010, 06:10 PM

Actually the "oil drip" is just that. It is built the same way as an oil separator, and looks the same at first glance, but is designed to hold AC oil (or other oil, I imagine) and has a drip regulator adjustment on the top where you can adjust the drip rate, usually in the form of an Allen Head screw. Turn it out, more drips, turn it in , less. I had never run into this until I did my first Yota AC conversion a number of years ago as all of my other conversions have been based around the York. This includes an 80 Yota pick up that I stuck a fuel injected 302 and C4, but that was cheating.....

scout man

December 27th, 2010, 06:15 PM

no pete, if you look at the picture he posted, the "oiler" is what you are calling an oil drip. What is labelled as an "oil drip" appears AFTER the compressor. I dont know of any reason you would be adding oil into the line after the compressor, so all I can figure is that they meant to label it as a seperator.

4finger

December 27th, 2010, 06:38 PM

This is what got me confused. its called a drip and its after the compressor. but in the parts list for Chris's vehicle( at the beggining of this thread) there is an inline filter (seperate from the input/air filter), and im kinda seeing it as a "oil type" air filter on some peoples input to the engine (K&N type cone thingy on my truck). maybe it oils the filter and helps keep out dirt/dust in the line before it goes through the manifold to the tank or some other output.
with ALOT of discussion with Brody through PM or Email (thank you again Brody- youve been a Peac........ a big help i mean.) we came up with the idea of if im worried about it then put it in- if not dont worry about it. ive been told by a couple of people through different forums that do not run it (seperator) they havent really had any issues. both with blowing off their dashes (no oil spots) or with refilling tires (slippery beads).

Brody

December 27th, 2010, 06:51 PM

You are right, Steve. Teach me to look at the pictures....

My "oil drip" is on the intake side of my compressor and the separator is on the output, just before the manifold. I sent Thomas a few shots of mine to clear it up a few days ago, so it never dawned on me to look at Chris' link, especially since I set that up with him...Hell...I know what goes where...usually...

scout man

December 27th, 2010, 07:02 PM

This is what got me confused. its called a drip and its after the compressor. but in the parts list for Chris's vehicle( at the beggining of this thread) there is an inline filter (seperate from the input/air filter), and im kinda seeing it as a "oil type" air filter on some peoples input to the engine (K&N type cone thingy on my truck). maybe it oils the filter and helps keep out dirt/dust in the line before it goes through the manifold to the tank or some other output.
you still sound confused to me. As far as oil goes for the compressor, there are only 2 devices needed. One is the oil drip, which is on the intake side between the filter (normal dry filter) and the compressor. The other is the seperator, which is inline AFTER the compressor and then takes the oil back out again. That is all there is. No oiled filters or anything needed.

My "oil drip" is on the intake side of my compressor and the separator is on the output, just before the manifold. I sent Thomas a few shots of mine to clear it up a few days ago, so it never dawned on me to look at Chris' link, especially since I set that up with him...Hell...I know what goes where...usually...
and thats how it should be, and thats how mine is, minus the oiler of course since mine is a york.