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4Runninfun
April 21st, 2009, 08:19 PM
Hey i know this topic has been beaten to death so i'll try to keep this quick. I run 255x85 r16 (33.2x10.1) and i know the general theory is to run 4.88's with 33's, but i'm thinking about going with 5.29's for a couple reason's. First living in CO at 7k feet, and generally the trails are at least that high if not higher. (black bear pass and imogene pass for ex) So i am thinking that it might be beneficial to have the extra gears for elevation. also even back in 85 when these trucks were built they aren't exactly powerhouses. so the extra gear should help when going up the passes. I typically don't ever drive above 65mph so i wouldn't think they would interfere with my normal highway driving. My truck is still my DD so i don't wanna have the engine screaming on an everyday basis but i would like to have 5th gear as more than a taunting dream. Anyone currently running this setup, or close to it? TIA!

Brody
April 22nd, 2009, 05:57 AM
My truck is still my DD so i don't wanna have the engine screaming on an everyday basis but i would like to have 5th gear as more than a taunting dream. Anyone currently running this setup, or close to it? TIA!

I was running 4.88s with 33s when my rig had IFS and the 3.0L and 5th gear was gathering dust...I am curious as to the replies you are going to get, because I would think that if you stepped up to 5.29s that you would lose power on the upper end, not gain it...don't know, but that's is my thought...

BTW...got any of those dumb plastic pieces for the front of the rear fenders on an 84? Junkyarding tomorrow or next day..looking for a header for ya...

4Runninfun
April 22nd, 2009, 08:37 AM
Here's a couple posts i got from colo4x4



Originally Posted by ~tc~ View Post
255/85 is a pretty tall 33, they're actually more comparable to a normal 34 or even a small 35 (like MTR).

With "normal" 33's and 4.88's, I'm at 3000 RPM at 70 MPH.

One "step" of gearing only increases your highway RPM by 250 or so, so keeping up with traffic isn't going to be a problem, and you will be MUCH more likely to stay in the powerband and therefore require a lighter throttle position, actually IMPROVING your mileage over being geared too high.

To sum up ... these engines like to be revved WAY more than they can stand being lugged.

I wish I had done 5.29's, but I lived at sea level at the time ...




One thing to keep in mind - Do you ever plan on adding a cam to the truck?

I added a cam to mine and used 5.71 gears. The cam lowered the powerband in the rev range and the gears took the RPM higher in the rev range. Around town I am in the powerband all day long, but on the highway, I quickly run outside it.

Just something to keep in mind. If you aren't planning on head work, I'd say get the 5.29.
I have the 261C and I noticed a big difference. On the otherhand, I did have a completely rebuilt 22re, ENGNBLDR's StreetRV head and the 5.71 gears installed within 200 miles of eachother...



Go 5.29, that's what I'm running with small 33's and I still have issues pulling hills. I can run down the highway at 80, but with my POS it's damn scary.

Albeit I have a carb'd truck, you weigh more, so it's close to a wash.

You're going to 35's someday, you're just not going to be able help yourself. So you'll be ahead of the game.

4Runninfun
April 22nd, 2009, 08:40 AM
I was thinking pretty much what TC said.

4runner freak
April 22nd, 2009, 09:13 AM
I run 32x11.5 MTRs in my 4runner with the stock 4.10s
In town I can stay at 70 on the freeway(uh, I mean at the speed limit :) )
I stayed above 45 all the way up to China Wall a couple weeks ago.
I hit slow spots going up I-70, but it would be fine for DD and to the trails.
Of course, I hardly ever use 5th gear.

Screweder
April 22nd, 2009, 09:16 AM
God I only wish I understood gear ratio jargin lol

Patrolman
April 22nd, 2009, 09:27 AM
I run the odd-ball 4.30's in both of my rigs. What I have found is that the truck on 33's actually has more power than the 4Runner on 32's. The only thing I can attribute it to is weight/aerodynamics. The 4Runner weighs a LOT more than the truck. When I load similar weight/aerodynamics into the truck, it bogs down just the same as the 4Runner. I can't see how the move from 4.88 to 5.29 would make a huge difference.

As Danny can explain though, adding the 2nd transmission can give better hill climbing gears as well as better highway cruising gears. :) Maybe something to explore?

Funrover
April 22nd, 2009, 09:31 AM
5.29 for what you are wanting would prob. be perfect. You would be doing 90 mph so it doesn't matter about that range.... If you do this make sure that you wait for me on the way to the trails!

4Runninfun
April 22nd, 2009, 12:23 PM
The 4Runner weighs a LOT more than the truck.

This aspect of weight is another contributing factor in thinking about 5.29's. By the time i'm done my 4runner is gonna be a heavy pig. I've already taken out the rear seats and put in a cargo box. i'll have heavy duty bumpers F&R. extra armor etc. i'm also looking at an offroad trailer down the road a bit.

the dual tranny's are cool but they just don't appeal to me right now. I haven't been able to really drive my truck for such a long time, the last thing i want to do is undertake another project. Diffs are at most a weekend job and i'm back up and running. Speaking of gears patrolman are you still able to set them up?

4Runninfun
April 22nd, 2009, 12:39 PM
God I only wish I understood gear ratio jargin lol

to help you out a little your ring and pinion gear are what are found in your axle. with toyota's and rover's as well as a few other axles out there we have what are called 3rd members which house the ring and pinion. 3rd members are nice because you can remove the whole unit and don't have to setup the gears in the axle.

when you hear someone talk about 4.56 or 3.73 or like with my current question of 4.88 vs 5.29 the real way to say it is 4.88 : 1, which is to say that the pinion gear will rotate 4.88 times for every one revolution of the ring gear. another (easier) way to think about this is your driveshaft will rotate 4.88 times for every one time your wheel will rotate. right now you probably have 4.10's in your truck, which is factory. ideally when you put bigger tires on you should change your gear ratio to keep your power and your 4lo nice and slow.

here is a link so you can see everything in action. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential2.htm

any other questions just ask.

Brody
April 22nd, 2009, 01:21 PM
Here is a link to one thread on this site with some links:

http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3072

And another one that I posted that has more information and links:

http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4385

Hope that these help out

4Runninfun
April 22nd, 2009, 02:44 PM
BTW...got any of those dumb plastic pieces for the front of the rear fenders on an 84? Junkyarding tomorrow or next day..looking for a header for ya...

i only have one set and they're going to go on my truck, sorry i can't help ya there. and thanks for looking, my temp fix on my manifold is already leaking not terrible but i can hear it. so i'll need to grab something. those stupid emissions block off plates...:mad:... what a STUPID idea! oh well i'll upgrade and take more advantage of the bigger valves and cam i have in.

BOYoda
April 29th, 2009, 09:19 PM
I dont know much about anything but I did buy a softtopper for my 4runner. cost 700 plus. from it I have crafted a second 'template frame' to accomodate the softtopper snaps. the frame screws into the existing factory holes of the truck bed. all that is required of anyone that wants the softtopper is to call order the soft top. i can buy the steel and weld the frame without much difficulty. expect to pay $280 for the canvas. the steel costs me about $100.

the big difference is that the soft top weighs about 230lbs less than the hard top. power to weight ratio greatly improved.

BOYoda formerly known as ......robert