Rear Drums on my TJ

[Aaron]

Hey all,

I'm thinking I need to do some rear break maintenance on my Jeep. I replaced the front breaks (rotors and pads) earlier this year. However, I have noticed that my rear breaks don't seem to grab as hard as I think they should. In fact, when on a hill with the parking break on, it won't hold the vehicle on the hill. I have adjusted the parking break handle so that isn't the issue. When on the road, it just doesn't seem to stop like it should.

I don't know if it is a break symptom but when I break hard at speed, the Jeep dives more on the right side while it wants to steer left which leads me to believe that the left rear is grabbing harder than the right rear.

There are no rubbing or squeaking sounds.

So, list of questions...

1. I have never done drum brake maintenance. I assume that it is something someone like me can handle but if I should have someone else do it, let me know.

2. What should I look out for / be careful of while working on the brakes? Pointers, tips, etc appreciated.

3. Anyone bored? I'm willing to take direction from someone who knows what they are doing.

Aaron

[Brody]

Aaron

The key to doing drum brakes is to expose both brakes, meaning that you need your rear axle up on jacks. Do one side at a time, using the other side as a reference. There are a lot of parts! The parts only are supposed to go in one way, but many fit in other places as well, hence the other side to use as reference. Use a lot of brake cleaner. Most of the springs are color coded and, if you are lucky, some of the color will still be on the old springs.

Don't expect to get the drum off without a little love, even if you crack the bleeder.

You really don't need special tools, but a good set of square nosed pliers are real handy if you need to stretch a spring to fit.

Get a manual or download the instructions. Most drums are pretty self explanatory, but there is a sequence that the parts come on and off.

I have done a bunch of rear/drum brakes and I am sure that anyone else who has done them will agree, they are a PITA and, if you figure your time, cheaper to have a shop do for $25 or so.

Oh..if you or a shop does them, make sure to replace the springs as they are now no longer coming with the pads.

They are worth doing yourself, at least one time, so that you know what is happening back there.

As to the pulling: If you replace the rear brakes and it is still happening after you bleed them, suspect the wheel cylinder as these would cause that. In fact, if you have the time and $$, simply replace the wheel cylinders while you are already there, eliminating this.

[Andrew]

Is there an easy way to tell how much life are left on drum brakes?

I have the darn things on my rear axle as well and I've also never had to do any maintenance on drums so not sure what to do.

[Brody]

Is there an easy way to tell how much life are left on drum brakes?

I have the darn things on my rear axle as well and I've also never had to do any maintenance on drums so not sure what to do.

They are set up much the same way as the front disc pads. Some have squealers in them, though, and some don't. The pads on the drums are about as thick as the pads on the discs, so figure a little more than 5/16" to start with for a new pad (you can also stop in at Checkers or some place and simply look and measure the pad thickness on a set of new ones), so the thing to do is to pop the drum off and see how thick the pads are.

I usually do mine once a year anyway, so just pass on the checking of the thickness...

FYI, my friend Bill that runs Englewood Driveshaft just installed EGR pads on the front of his huge (12" lift, 42" Swampers, built Danas...a heavy rig) Surburban and he said it is like he installed sports car brakes on it. He said that it was the best bang for the buck upgrade he has ever done on this truck.

I am sure that there are other ways to do this, but this is what I do. If anyone knows an easier way, please feel free to post it!

[Aaron]

They are set up much the same way as the front disc pads. Some have squealers in them, though, and some don't. The pads on the drums are about as thick as the pads on the discs, so figure a little more than 5/16" to start with for a new pad (you can also stop in at Checkers or some place and simply look and measure the pad thickness on a set of new ones), so the thing to do is to pop the drum off and see how thick the pads are.

I usually do mine once a year anyway, so just pass on the checking of the thickness...

FYI, my friend Bill that runs Englewood Driveshaft just installed EGR pads on the front of his huge (12" lift, 42" Swampers, built Danas...a heavy rig) Surburban and he said it is like he installed sports car brakes on it. He said that it was the best bang for the buck upgrade he has ever done on this truck.

I am sure that there are other ways to do this, but this is what I do. If anyone knows an easier way, please feel free to post it!

I put Performance Friction on the front and was happy with the results.

I'm looking forward to doing this and seeing how hard it really is. The Jeep has 140,000 miles on it and I doubt the rear brakes have ever been replaced. When I replaced the front ones, I replaced the rotors as well. I'm guessing that the hardest part of this job is getting the drums off.

I love learning on this rig.

[Andrew]

Doesn't look like EGR makes anything for us Nissan owners.

[gm4x4lover]

If they are not bad why not just adjust them? That is most likely the real issue at hand.

[Brody]

I put Performance Friction on the front and was happy with the results.

I'm looking forward to doing this and seeing how hard it really is. The Jeep has 140,000 miles on it and I doubt the rear brakes have ever been replaced. When I replaced the front ones, I replaced the rotors as well. I'm guessing that the hardest part of this job is getting the drums off.

Take a rubber mallet (or hammer if you don't have a rubber mallet) and tap around the edge (side) of the drum to get it loose. Then bounce the hammer off the face of the drum. What happens is that you end up with so much road junk in between the drum and inner face that you need to loosen it up to get it off. It will eventually start to get loosened up enough to get fingers in enough to wiggle it off.

Installation is a modified reverse version of the above, and, depending on the thickness of the new pads, you may have to crack the bleeder in order to get the drum over the new pads. Many times you don't,though.

Grease the parts that they want you to grease as these are the parts that automatically adjust the brakes. A regular screwdriver will work to adjust the brakes through the slot on the inside after they are all together.

I was glad that I had done a set of drums many years ago when I was wheeling and I heard some bad sounds coming from the rear. One wheel kept binding up, too, but would turn OK in reverse. Turns out that I had a critical spring break in the drum and it was causing all sorts of stuff to bind up inside and stop the wheel. I was able to easily (relative term) disassemble the brake, close off the rear brake line, put it all back together and wheel the rest of the weekend. It would have been an entirely different story if I had never seen the inside of a drum brake...

[Aaron]

Hey all,

Well last weekend I completed this task. It wasn't all that bad. It was like putting together a puzzle. As is usually the case, it took 3 hours to do one side and 20 minutes to do the other. The Jeep brakes MUCH better now and almost more importantly, the parking brake works very well again!

I also swapped the spark plugs, put a new distributor cap and rotor on, and added some new synthetic.

I guess I ought to look at the gear oil before too long...

[Brody]

I guess I ought to look at the gear oil before too long...


Glad that this went OK. It has always seemed to be key to me to keep one side unmolested as a reference.

As far as the gear oil goes: Save yourself some grief and just have one of the lube (Jiffy, Quick Lube, etc) do this for you. Explain that you are draining and replacing the fluid in your diffs, T case and tranny. They will only top off the fluid unless you are very specific.They have a power pump gun, so unless you really like the smell of gear oil and want to get a nice greasy workout with a hand operated pump, spend the few $$ and have these guys do it.

If you do this, take a metal marker or a little spray paint and mark the drain and fill plugs before you take it in in such a manner that you can tell if they have even been removed. Some of these places are a little less than honest, but most are OK.

[WINKY]

If you do this, take a metal marker or a little spray paint and mark the drain and fill plugs before you take it in in such a manner that you can tell if they have even been removed. Some of these places are a little less than honest, but most are OK.



Good point, although any time i bring my truck in for a oil change or diff change etc... i always lay down on the ground out of the bay and watch. there is a lube shop near my place that lets me go into the pit and inspect the undercarriage whenever i go in. I told them i used to work at a lube shop in florida (i did actually) and know my way around and know what to watch out for.

Many places will let you go down there if they feel you know what your talkin bout and if its not too busy. Doesnt hurt to ask :thunb: