Brody
September 15th, 2009, 03:30 AM
No pictures as front end/timing chain replacement articles are all over the forum and internet. Here is aboutthe best write up of the whole timing chain replacement:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timingchain/
I replaced all the front end gaskets on the 22R in the 84. This repaired the oil leak caused by the previous installer of the new timing chain and water pump, which was really bad. It took quite a lot longer than I figured with the extra time being spent mainly on cleaning everything of accumulated crud, even after washing the engine.
I knew what the guy had done wrong, too. Here is what it is:
You can replace the timing chain on any of the 22R/RE engines without removing either the head or the oil pan. It is a little tricky, but saves a lot of time. The ONLY way this works is to LOAD up the top of the timing chain cover where it meets the head/head gasket and the bottom where it meets the oil pan with some RTV on the cleanest surface you can get. You have to kinda force the cover in place between the head and oil pan and loading it up with the RTV is the only way you are going to get enough sealer in there to do any good. The previous owner/installer hadn't done the "load" part and oil was spraying out both sides from the top.
FYI: When you go to break loose the crank shaft pulley bolt, stick a breaker bar on a 1/2" socket and wedge it under the frame rail. Make sure you put it on the right side of the engine so you don't end up wearing it:D When it is wedged in place and the rig is out of gear, etc, etc, bump the key. This will break this bolt free. To reinstall it and come close to the right torque, block all the wheel, stick it in 4Lo, lock the hub and go to town. You probably won't come close to the torque that Yota suggests, but it will be close enough.
A fair amount of work for a stupid oil leak. Doesn't run faster or better, just doesn't dump on the driveway anymore...and both the engine and the under hood area are much cleaner....
FYI...anyone contemplating a front end/timing chain replacement on this engine, Bear was good enough to provide me wih a trashed timing chain cover that made re locating the many different sized bolts a breeze. Contact me and you can certainly borrow this.
I also replaced the driver's side window crank. Sourced at Yoda Jims (Jims Got Parts) for $20 new.
I went to crank the engine to set the tining and the starter gave up the ghost...Great times all the way around, but it all needed to be done.
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timingchain/
I replaced all the front end gaskets on the 22R in the 84. This repaired the oil leak caused by the previous installer of the new timing chain and water pump, which was really bad. It took quite a lot longer than I figured with the extra time being spent mainly on cleaning everything of accumulated crud, even after washing the engine.
I knew what the guy had done wrong, too. Here is what it is:
You can replace the timing chain on any of the 22R/RE engines without removing either the head or the oil pan. It is a little tricky, but saves a lot of time. The ONLY way this works is to LOAD up the top of the timing chain cover where it meets the head/head gasket and the bottom where it meets the oil pan with some RTV on the cleanest surface you can get. You have to kinda force the cover in place between the head and oil pan and loading it up with the RTV is the only way you are going to get enough sealer in there to do any good. The previous owner/installer hadn't done the "load" part and oil was spraying out both sides from the top.
FYI: When you go to break loose the crank shaft pulley bolt, stick a breaker bar on a 1/2" socket and wedge it under the frame rail. Make sure you put it on the right side of the engine so you don't end up wearing it:D When it is wedged in place and the rig is out of gear, etc, etc, bump the key. This will break this bolt free. To reinstall it and come close to the right torque, block all the wheel, stick it in 4Lo, lock the hub and go to town. You probably won't come close to the torque that Yota suggests, but it will be close enough.
A fair amount of work for a stupid oil leak. Doesn't run faster or better, just doesn't dump on the driveway anymore...and both the engine and the under hood area are much cleaner....
FYI...anyone contemplating a front end/timing chain replacement on this engine, Bear was good enough to provide me wih a trashed timing chain cover that made re locating the many different sized bolts a breeze. Contact me and you can certainly borrow this.
I also replaced the driver's side window crank. Sourced at Yoda Jims (Jims Got Parts) for $20 new.
I went to crank the engine to set the tining and the starter gave up the ghost...Great times all the way around, but it all needed to be done.