Wheel ideas

[1freaky1]

Okay so as I am getting closer to installing the full size axles it is time to consider new wheels to put my new 35s on. I was pondering just buying the same style I currently have on the ranger now with my 33s. But am thinking of switching over to something in aluminum styles. Here is what I am looking into and what I have now;Main reason for buying new wheels is the larger bolt pattern of the full size axles.

[Brody]

I am a full on steel wheel guy. I like the Pro Comp Rock Crawler rims for their simplicity and strength. I don't like aluminum or mag wheels because they break instead of bend and are much more expensive. They do look better and are lighter, but I don't feel that they belong on a rig that is going to be in the rocks wheeling.

[Funrover]

I am a full on steel wheel guy. I like the Pro Comp Rock Crawler rims for their simplicity and strength. I don't like aluminum or mag wheels because they break instead of bend and are much more expensive. They do look better and are lighter, but I don't feel that they belong on a rig that is going to be in the rocks wheeling.

I prefer alloy's, the short time I had steel on the Rover was not a pleasent time. I constantly lost beads, bent up a rim, caused a pinch flat or 2 etc etc.. No thanks. My Rims on the Rover have done extremely well in the rock. thay have some rash and it shows.

[Funrover]

And I think the black would look good, the bling is nice.... but not for a crawler

[InsanityIsBorn]

And I think the black would look good, the bling is nice.... but not for a crawler

Bling?? Nice?????:confused:


no... ewwwww:tsk::rant:

[4Runninfun]

Bling?? Nice?????:confused:


no... ewwwww:tsk::rant:

haha exactly:thunb:

[Brody]

Aside from what I said about the aluminum or mag rims, I think Jon has a sweet set of aluminum or mags in his barn the he was trying to sell awhile back. Don't know the size, but the hole pattern is right. You will have to make sure the rims will clear the calipers on the front to be sure...

[KnuckleHead]

I also say go with the black... they just seem to look better on a rig....

[ShutUpHippie]

Gloss black steelies

[1freaky1]

Well I thru the polished ones in more for a kicker, but I am definitely going to go with black for sure, I am not a big fan of the bling bling! I had my times early on with chrome everything that could be done and anymore I don't want to spend the time polishing things like that. For that matter even the '57 has limited chrome and I am building it for shows.
As for size wheels I am looking for they are 16x10s, 5 on 5-1/2s.

[4Runninfun]

Aside from what I said about the aluminum or mag rims, I think Jon has a sweet set of aluminum or mags in his barn the he was trying to sell awhile back. Don't know the size, but the hole pattern is right. You will have to make sure the rims will clear the calipers on the front to be sure...

thanks for the mention pete, i did sell them a few month back though.

[A-TRAC]

I prefer alloy's, the short time I had steel on the Rover was not a pleasent time. I constantly lost beads, bent up a rim, caused a pinch flat or 2 etc etc.. No thanks. My Rims on the Rover have done extremely well in the rock. thay have some rash and it shows.

Yeah, I'm not big on steel wheels myself for the stuff I do.

It's a big debate in the wheeling community and most people swear by steelies and their logic is, it doesn't break, it bends.

Flip side is, alloys are much stronger, so they don't bend that easily. And, I have yet to see a quality alloy break by rock-crawling. Faster Baja stuff where people catch 20 feet of air and land on their alloys might break them. But, at that point, I bet you have bigger issues than a broken wheel.

Either way, I drive a FJC and considering it's IFS is so delicate, my biggest reason for staying away from steelies is unsprung weight. I've seen too many busted diffs and broken axles when people throw on steelies and 35"s and end up with a 120 lbs each wheel/tire combo.

I've heard of numbers anywhere from unsprung weight equalling 4 to 10 times sprung weight. Not sure which number is right, but I bought into the whole concept way before I got into off-roading and owned faster cars. - http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/rotational-unsprung-weight-issues-46496.html

Also, quality alloys are not that easy to break. Below are pictures of an Audi I had that hit something at 150-ish MPH.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i141/khalidafridi/IMG_4971.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i141/khalidafridi/IMG_4964.jpg

[WINKY]

yrutus has allow rims, they are by no means flimsy or thinly spoked like the ghetto bling rims. ive caught 2-3 feet in the air on them, i have no problems. Now the inner bead will bend in a bit if hit directly or hard enough through the tire (my spare rim was off a wrecked dodge that hit a curb, barely bent the rim) I was able to straighten it.

with steelies or alloy, dont hammer on them and no matter what you have they will be ok.

[Brody]

Either way, I drive a FJC and considering it's IFS is so delicate, my biggest reason for staying away from steelies is unsprung weight. I've seen too many busted diffs and broken axles when people throw on steelies and 35"s and end up with a 120 lbs each wheel/tire combo.

I've heard of numbers anywhere from unsprung weight equalling 4 to 10 times sprung weight. Not sure which number is right, but I bought into the whole concept way before I got into off-roading and owned faster cars. - http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/rotational-unsprung-weight-issues-46496.html

Also, quality alloys are not that easy to break. Below are pictures of an Audi I had that hit something at 150-ish MPH.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i141/khalidafridi/IMG_4971.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i141/khalidafridi/IMG_4964.jpg
I didn't think you were supposed to hit stuff going over 100mph!

Thanks for mentioning the unsprung weight and IFS! Very good points and something to consider. This is probably the most important point as far as using alloys.

Sean is doing a SAS on his Ranger and using a Dana 44 from an older pick up. This combo is stout and steel wheels/alloy wheels isn't much of an issue as far as weight goes here.

[1freaky1]

That was a really good point that I always have trouble remembering, the Unsprung weight vs Sprung weight issue. I always seem to get it mixed up and one really good point that this applies to is everyone running wheels that are more than 1+ in wheel size on their rides. Those 20-26" wheels some folks put on is fine except it kills their brakes and other suspension parts wear out faster.

[Brody]

Those 20-26" wheels some folks put on is fine except it kills their brakes and other suspension parts wear out faster.

Not only that, but on a 4x4 you are looking to get sidewall flex when you air down. Doesn't take a Phd to figure out that the bigger the rim size, the less sidewall flex you are going to have. Many people I know that went up to larger rims (we are talking 18" and up) and ran the same size tires that they were used to with smaller rims, switched back to a smaller rim size in order to get better flex and a softer ride.

Not to mention the fact that the same size tires designed for the larger rims cost more money...All you are buying is looks unless you have a performance car..The largest rim size for a 4x4, at least until you get above a 44" tire, and still keeping it practical for wheeling, is going to be 17".

[Mporter]

Doesn't take a Phd to figure out that the bigger the rim size, the less sidewall flex you are going to have.


I had to laugh to myself at Discount the other day when the tire tech was trying to explain this to a woman about All Terrain tires on her jeep....she didn't quite understand the first couple times. :lol: