Regear and lockers

[Mporter]

So I have a few questions.
Eventually, once I get some other stuff crossed off the list, I was gonna regear and put some lockers in my rig.

Regear:
Max size tires that'll EVER EVER be run will be 35s (very unlikely) but 33's are a more reasonable size. What is a good regear for that? (Running 4.11's right now) I was thinking maybe 4.54s but if i might eventually do 35s then 4.88s might be a better choice.
Is it smarter/cheaper to just go ahead and do a regear and lockers in one go? Or does it really matter if I regear one day and then get lockers later.

FYI: I'm probably going to get ARB lockers

Also, about how much would a regear cost (just for parts) because I already have an idea of how much lockers would cost, I just don't know any good brands of gears or prices.

Thanks,
Matt

[RidgeRunner]

For gear price check here www.ringpinion.com (http://www.ringpinion.com) they carry several different brands and you can check the price differences threre. Don't forget to price install kits too, you'll need those as well.

What ratio you go with depends on weather you are more concerned with gas milage or performance. Back when I had my Toyota I was running 5.29 gears with 35s and would have used 4.88s with 33s. That's a little more on the performance end. check out the chart here: http://www.superioraxle.com/feature.html Match up the tire size and ratio want, then see the RPMs at 65mph at 1:1 in the tranny (usually 4th on a manual). Keep in mind that the common ratios for Toyotas are 4.11, 4.56, 4.88, and 5.29.

I think most people will say to go with 4:88s and 33s, that's what I'd do unless you know for sure that you're gonna go to 35s. Ask Chris what gears he has, I think he's got 35s on his rig now.

[Mporter]

Yeah this might just be something that's a little over my head and ill just take it to a shop to price it out and see what all I need.

[Brody]

Check your PMs for my reply to this. I keep getting some stupid bull**** error message that 'my reply is too short, blah, blah.."

Best sit down at the shop when you ask about pricing. A shop is going to charge at least $800 for a re gear and master install kit. Add a locker to that and you are looking at about $1500 or over per axle. There are cheaper ways to go about this...



Yeah this might just be something that's a little over my head and ill just take it to a shop to price it out and see what all I need.

[Mporter]

Yeah Pete I saw/read the PM, thanks for the great info.

As far as actually BUYING it at a 4x4 shop.....that's probably unlikely, i've seen what some of them charge, especially for labor, it's quite ridiculous. I mean just talk to a shop about what I wanna do it with and see what they suggest as an option(s).

[Chris]

Matt, I have 35's and stock 4.11's which I find to be fine. If I had any money I'd do selectable lockers and 4.88's but that's not the case so this setup is fine. Having the 5 speed rather than the stock tranny helps in this case too.

[Brody]

Matt, I have 35's and stock 4.11's which I find to be fine. If I had any money I'd do selectable lockers and 4.88's but that's not the case so this setup is fine. Having the 5 speed rather than the stock tranny helps in this case too.

That is another good point, Chris! What do you have for a tranny in that thing, Matt? An auto or a manual? You can usually get by with running higher (numerically) gears in a manual.

Figure a shop price of $100 or so per hour. Check out the prices for a complete 3rd member from Marlin, Trail Gear, or All Pro with a locker and you will have a very good idea.

Jeff (Patrolman), Jeff (DmsFab) and Scotty(Addicted Off Road) are just a few of the folks on this forum that will help with the gear and/or locker install.

Your other choice, though these are getting hard to find, is finding a set of used Toyota E Lockers and wiring them up or rigging them manually.

[Air Randy]

FWIW I found that running 37's and 4.88's made the speedometer in my FJ40 right on the money, to imply the 4.88's make up for the 37's so that you're running about the same final drive ratio as stock.

If you don't want to kill your highway gas mileage you may want to consider 4.56's with 35's and maybe stay stock if you go with 33's or below.

Another thing to think about: If your goal is to improve on-pavement performance as well as off road, then re-gearing is OK. If this is your DD and you are happy with the way it drives on pavement, consider getting a 4-1 transfer case or toy box. That will give you a big boost in off road crawl-a-bility but keep your on pavement gearing civil.

[Chris]

At one time I had planned to run 4.88's with a front ARB locker but finances got in the way. :(

[Mporter]

That is another good point, Chris! What do you have for a tranny in that thing, Matt? An auto or a manual? You can usually get by with running higher (numerically) gears in a manual.


Running the stock Automatic trans in there right now.....awwwwww yeeeee---- wait...



If you don't want to kill your highway gas mileage you may want to consider 4.56's with 35's and maybe stay stock if you go with 33's or below.

Another thing to think about: If your goal is to improve on-pavement performance as well as off road, then re-gearing is OK. If this is your DD and you are happy with the way it drives on pavement, consider getting a 4-1 transfer case or toy box. That will give you a big boost in off road crawl-a-bility but keep your on pavement gearing civil.

Yeah that's why i was considering 4.56's. But it is my DD right now (occasional 4x4, once I get funds and the thing built). I just don't like the power loss I get from going up hills, but thats always been an issue with it.

But yet again....this whole regear/locker issue isn't a priority right now, just something i'm trying to get info on so I wont be completely in the dark when I finally decide to do something ;)

Thanks everyone for your input and help!

[Chris]

I just don't like the power loss I get from going up hills, but thats always been an issue with it.

Drop it into 3rd and hammer it Matt. What rpm's do you take it up to going up the hills? My guess is you keep it too low, let that sucker scream. ;)

[Mporter]

Drop it into 3rd and hammer it Matt. What rpm's do you take it up to going up the hills? My guess is you keep it too low, let that sucker scream. ;)

Haha that's what I do. Going from Alameda up C470 to I-70 interchange I have it in 3rd up until about 3200-3500 RPMs and that gets me about 60-65 (depending) and then I switch back up to 4th. Gotta love the sound of that 3FE at 3k+ RPM :thunb:

[Chris]

Yep, just leave it in 3rd at 3500 and the hills are fine. ;)

[RicardoJM]

Haha that's what I do. Going from Alameda up C470 to I-70 interchange I have it in 3rd up until about 3200-3500 RPMs and that gets me about 60-65 (depending) and then I switch back up to 4th. Gotta love the sound of that 3FE at 3k+ RPM :thunb:

Wow, your aren't going slow at all:D. On that same hill, I crest the top doing 55 mph. I don't know what the gearing is in the diffs of my 1F, 3 speed FJ40; but it does take all the throttle I have.