Brody's Venezuela Vacation

[Brody]

Well, where to start? This was a really interesting trip, to begin with. Neither LaDawn nor I had ever gone into Central America or had had much experience with a 3rd World country other than Mexico, so we really didn't know what to expect.

The flight to Caracas, Venezuela started with a jump to O'Hare, then down to Miami for an overnight. We then got on our Santa Barbara flight to Caracas, where we expected to be able to grab a flight to Margarita Island, only about 12 miles away. Since we found 6-8 airlines flying out of Caracas with flights leaving to Magarita Island every half hour, we didn't book this online as the prices varied so much and we simply figured that we could grab a flight when we got there. Not to be. Not only was the language barrier a very real problem, but everything was booked!

It turned out that if you didn't have a reservation, you were pretty screwed...and getting a reservation was very entertaining. The Venezuelan's work on the principle that if you don't have a reservation, you can't simply purchase a ticket. Not only that, but if you aren't there 2 hours before your scheduled flight, your reservations go to someone else. We spent 8 hours waiting for an opening and finally got into Margarita Island at 1:30AM Saturday morning.

The next day was spent recuperating from almost from 30 something hours of travel and just wandering around the beaches, eating some really good food and drinking a local concoction called 'coco loco's', a drink made from fresh coconuts and some potent liquor...We scheduled an island 'Jeep' tour for the next day.

We got picked up in a very beat up Jeep, the same one in the island rigs pictures that has the huge yellow bumper and brush guard on it, along with 4 other people. The Jeep was dying, backfiring and gasping all day long, quitting twice. Every time we stopped, the driver got out the wrenches and popped the hood to do some work...We were all joking about how we were probably going to have to finally start pushing the thing..At any rate, we saw some nice scenery, hit a couple of great beaches, had a great lunch and did a little 'wheeling'. We also did a boat tour through the large lagoons filled with mangroves and narrow tunnels.

When we got back from this, we decided to look up a local 'tour' company to schedule some more stuff to do. We found a really good one and set up some trips. The next day, we took a boat over to Coches Island where we had a relaxing day on the beaches there and stuffed ourselves with some really good and fresh fish. We had set up a day for LaDawn to do some diving, but signals somehow got crossed with the dive people and the cab driver who picked us up. We got taken to a small harbor parking lot and were basically dropped off. Due to the fact that Spanish is the predominate language (in this case meaning that most people aren't going to be speaking English...something that we found all through this trip) we had a very hard time trying to find out what exactly was going on. No dive boat, no dive master, just a bunch of fisherman and a few people going snorkeling, not something we really wanted to do.

Not wanting to deal with the lack on communication, especially on something like a dive, LaDawn and I decided to bail on this and walked the beaches all the way back to the travel outfit. When we got there, they tried to reset the dive up and we went back to the harbor where someone was supposed to fast boat us to the dive boat. No fast boat...so we said screw it and just hung out after getting many apologies and our money back.

The next day we were going to go to Cubagua, another island, but one without so many beaches and quite rougher. We got a call that night from the travel people because the trip got cancelled due to a storm moving in. We had a choice of four other tours: diving, which we nixxed, swimming with the dolphins(OK, but...), horsebacking riding on the beach (not too much appeal there, either), or doing another island tour. We opted for the island tour as it went to different places and we had a very good time, especially with a much better tour guide.

Here are the pictures from the first half of the trip, including a couple of maps:

[Brody]

More pictures

[Brody]

More pictures x 3

[Brody]

More pictures x 4. Yes, those are black pearls and they are harvested right off the island. They are also extremely cheap, with a single strand necklace running around $30 US. This display was right next to a similar display of white pearls.

The fort pictures were from a Spanish fort that was built in 1660. The musket pictures date from the same time and were on display at the fort.

[Brody]

More pictures x5

The lagoon boat trip was pretty sweet and we actually ended up doing it twice. It was fun both times. You could reach out of the boat and pick live (and big) starfish off the mangrove roots, which was pretty cool. LaDawn has a couple of pictures on her camera of me 'wearing' one on my forehead..We also got a couple of nice shots of some ospreys, but these are on her camera, too.

If you look at the map of Margarita Island, you will see that the lagoons are just inland from a huge 'U' shaped beach. This happens to be the largest beach in Venezuela and it is miles long.

[Brody]

Part two of the trip was where the real adventure began. We flew from Margarita into Porta Ordaz, then caught a little puddle jumper to Canaima, where all of the smaller waterfalls and the pretty bay pictures are taken. This is where we spent out first night in a small Indian village.

After we arrived, had some lunch, and stashed our meager gear, we went on a waterfall hiking/boating tour through the national forest. This started in the small lagoon about 2 minutes from where we ate. We took a small boat to the other side of the lagoon, passing some really nice waterfalls. We then hiked through the forest to the top of the small ridge and to another lagoon. Here we spent some time on a really pretty beach, then hiked around to the other side where we walked behind the waterfall.

We hiked back down towards the camp an stopped at one of the waterfalls we passed on the way up in the boat, which you could also walk behind. These were both exceptionally pretty.

The next day started our boat journey to Angel Falls. The boats were native piroques, carved out of single trees, capable of holding about 8 people and gear. These things were stout, about 2 1/2" thick, and powered by a 40-50 hp outboard. It was a good thing they were thick, too...

In our boat, we had another American, a Russian couple from Moscow, a threesome from Portugal, a Brazillian woman, a guy from Scotland and another guy from Canada. Quite a collection of folks, all of whom were very nice.

We proceeded up the river, but because it was getting towards the end of the season the water was very low. We had to stop at one point and walk a couple of miles across a savannah to avoid the worst low spots and get into the boats past this point. They were only able to travel upstream through the rapids here with 2 people in them. We stayed on the big river for a long time, and finally turned up into the smaller river that would bring us to the second camp, directly across from Angel Falls.

This second part was where the fun began as there were many low spots and we (the guys)were constantly having to get out of the boat and wrestle it it over them, sometimes in rushing water past our waists. I have to say that it took some cojones to hop out into water that had both piranhas and caimens( basically a smaller, nasty, crocodile) in it and wrestle a heavy boat around. Needless to say, those two factors made getting back into the boat again a fast process.

The scenery was stunning throughout this part and we saw many huge waterfalls along the way, sometimes as high as 1500' or more feet, with many double falls side by side. All this was done on a river that was winding through some of the most Jules Vernish country I have ever seen, with huge 'tepuys' rising out of the clouds on either side and the river colored almost red because of the amount of tannic acid in it.

After about 6 solid hours of this, we finally arrived at the farthest campsite and our first real view of Angel Falls. That alone was worth all the work! We dropped out gear off at the camp and started up the trail to the base of the falls, about a 2 hour round trip through a rain forest jungle. This trail ended up at just about the base of the actual falls where you are looking almost straight up at it. Spectacular!

We hiked back down to the camp where out Indian guides had started cooking 'mystery meat on a stick' and rice for dinner. Everyone was pretty beat by this point and were more than willing to dive into the hammocks to sleep.

Morning was an early wake up and another boat ride, this time going with the current. I think we only had to get out 4 times on the way down to push. No one could remember how many times we had to do this on the way up. Counts varied from 15 to 25 times...and all of us had gotten sucked under the boat more than once when we suddenly hit deep water with no footing...Entertaining, to say the least...

As soon as we got back to camp, we had enough time to get cleaned up, grab a little lunch and catch out flight back to Porta Ordaz.

Here are some pictures from that part, including some from the plane ride in.

[Brody]

More part 2 pictures

[Funrover]

Looks like a great time! Even with the complications you still seemed to come out of it great! So many beautiful sights.

[Brody]

And some more

[Brody]

And the last. I would do this trip, especially the last part, again in a heart beat. I would skip all the cute 'beach stuff' and get right out where things got exciting and a little interesting and spend more time exploring the 'tepuys' and waterways. LaDawn though this trip started getting entertaining about when I did, too.

This last picture is on a brief stop we made on the way back at a small waterfall. LaDawn is sitting with our main Indian guide, Jesus, who was super cool, and is finishing hand carving a rain stick for us. He is one of a tribe of 1800 Indians, I believe called 'Pepes', that live in a 300 mile area around Canaima. He took us over to his house the first night we stayed there and introduced us to his whole family, sharing his dinner with us. The dinner was very much like Native American food with hand ground cornmeal bread, plaintains and, once again, mystery meat...

[Andrew]

Too bad the water wasn't flowing more on Angel Falls.

I would have loved to go there, but would have to waterproof my camera gear it sounds like.

I would have probably spent the entire first 2 hours from sunrise and last 2 hours to sunset taking pictures.

I'd probably annoy anyone else that was on the trip heh.

[Brody]

Yeah, water proofing the camera gear would be good, but everyone made do with plastic bags and being a little careful. We were all totally soaked by the time we got to the upper camp, both from the spray off the bow and jumping in the water. Luckily there were enough calm spots to take pictures from and also lucky that there was quite a bit of warning before it got rough.

We did wish that we had brought some of those smaller OR or Seal Tight river style bags, but all of our extra gear arrived dry at the camp. I think we took over 500 photos and a mess of video footage, so these are only a small part. It was the kind of place where you could easily spend a month, a lot of it simply staring at some marvel...

As usual, there wasn't enough time in the vacation...

[Mporter]

looks like a great time.

[Andrew]

Yeah, water proofing the camera gear would be good, but everyone made do with plastic bags and being a little careful. We were all totally soaked by the time we got to the upper camp, both from the spray off the bow and jumping in the water. Luckily there were enough calm spots to take pictures from and also lucky that there was quite a bit of warning before it got rough.

We did wish that we had brought some of those smaller OR or Seal Tight river style bags, but all of our extra gear arrived dry at the camp. I think we took over 500 photos and a mess of video footage, so these are only a small part. It was the kind of place where you could easily spend a month, a lot of it simply staring at some marvel...

As usual, there wasn't enough time in the vacation...

Yeah but a $1200 camera and about $3000 in lenses doesn't get trusted to a plastic bag.

I'd have to get some o-ring sealed stuff that would actually float in water if it fell in.

Well that and insurance.

Actually though I'd be more worried about being able to take pictures and the pictures surviving the trip home, than the gear - esp. if I had insurance.

[Chris]

Great stuff Pete, glad you had a good time. Love the pics!

[WINKY]

LOOK AT THOSE SH!T EATIN GRINS!!!!!!!

http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6686&stc=1&d=1259785548

[WINKY]

i need to go on vacation with you guys! i love the whole non resort stuff you do!

[CR]

Glad you had a nice time Pete. Great pics.

[SubaCool]

Speechless :eek: Looks like you two had a great time. Someday though, when I grow up and become rich, I too would love to visit Central America :o

[WINKY]

when I grow up and become rich


i think this is far from the truth....:(

[Brody]

Well, since we are neither grown up nor rich and we managed to do it, it certainly puts it into the realm of possibility for you! We just start budgeting for the next vacation about the time we get back. We are probably already budgeting for the next one and I don't even know it...

This whole last year, we stopped buying magazines, really watched the food and expense budgets, didn't go out to eat or to movies, etc., etc., cutting down on everything except for the basic crapola. Then about 3-4 months before we are going to go anywhere, we start to shop around for deals...airfare, rooms, anything... and base where we can afford to go on what kind of deals we get.

It doesn't hurt that LaDawn owns a time share and we swap weeks with it as this cuts down a big expense. We also very judiciously use credit cards that we get air miles on, paying them off every month. Last year by doing the credit card air miles thing, we only paid 1/3rd the cost of one ticket for two round trips to Aruba...

[SubaCool]

This whole last year, we stopped buying magazines, really watched the food and expense budgets, didn't go out to eat or to movies, etc., etc., cutting down on everything except for the basic crapola
We already do all that, still can't afford stuff :D

Last year though, we went to Slovakia (and traveled around central Europe a bit) for 6 weeks. We've put the tickets on a credit card and used the tax refund to pay it off. Had some money saved up for while we were there, but it also helped that most of my family lives there too :thunb:

[ShutUpHippie]

Awesome! Looks like it was a great trip.

[Rob]

Nice pics and write-up, Pete. You should start writing travel guides. :thunb:

Glad ya'll had a good time and made it back safe.

[Pathrat]

Great travelogue and pictures! I am quite envious.

[Roostercruiser]

great pics:thunb:

[gragravar]

That looks like an awesome trip!

[KnuckleHead]

Looks like you guys had a great time... Love the pix...

[1freaky1]

Great pics Pete glad you two made it back in good health and love those pics a lot. Looks like an awesome place to go.

[Hypoid]

Niiiiiiiiiiice! I'm still laughing about the "mystery meat." It could be something that is actually kinda cool. If it turns out to be kinda reviling, just remember your host has been eating it for a long time, and has yet to keel over from it. :D

[Brody]

I stopped wondering about what could be in non US food a long time ago and eating weird meat has never bothered me if it tasted good. Jesus said it was anaconda, but may have been pulling out leg. It did look like some sort of snake, but I have eaten rattler and it was OK, so I imagine anaconda tastes OK, too. I did notice a shortage of cats down there, so maybe they figured in the menu...kinda like not seeing any dogs around your favorite Vietnamese restaurant...

We actually ate quite a bit of 'mystery meat' food stuff from vendors carts, too, with no ill results. Can't be any worse than the pathetic crap that McDonalds, Burger King, Arby's and all those other fast food places try to pass off as food...

We did eat some really good fresh fish and good steaks, both of which were very, very cheap down there..

[Chris]

Pork is the primary meat there Pete, not going to guess what part of the pig though...

[Brody]

i need to go on vacation with you guys! i love the whole non resort stuff you do!

We have had friends that do the 'inclusive resort' stuff. No only do they spend a fortune, but they never get out to see what all there is to see. We usually get the cheapest kitchenette type room, shop at the local grocery, eat breakfast in the room, make a lunch, and stay out all day, returning only to sleep. Who needs an expensive room for that?

On both St Lucia and Aruba, we took the local buses everywhere. I think it cost around $1 US in both places to get around the whole island. We would have done it on this trip, but were advised by a great many people, both during and before the trip, that this wouldn't be the best idea as there were many places 'non tourist friendly' and a lot of crime. Not to mention that the police and the National Guard were known to shake down tourists for $$, much like any other fine 3rd World nation, if you strayed off the beaten path.

Here are some more pictures, these from LaDawn's camera. One of them is taken from the plane when we did a fly by of Angel Falls. I drew a line showing the approximate trail and where we took the falls pictures from. We actually flew around this 3 times so that people on both sides of the plane could get photos. The clouds were a daily sight in this area and the skies were seldom really clear.

[Brody]

And some more. The boat ride to Angel Falls took 6 hours and the hike to where the pictures were taken another 2. All in all, a rather remote spot. We spent the night at a camp near the start of the hiking trail to the falls in hammocks and then left the next morning for the return trip.

One of the things that made this a 'sporting' vacation, was the fact that it was very obvious Venezuela was a 3rd world country. There were what only could be described as armed thugs (National Guard) in every airport over there, none of whom looked like they had any real training, most had little pot bellies and looked out of shape, and all of whom either had automatic weapons or un latched tac holsters. Almost all of these guys had their fingers on the triggers or on their pistols...not indexed...and they looked like your basic 'bangers'. The other thing that was a little disturbing about these guys was the fact that they were all privates and that there were absolutely no NCOs or officers around. It later turned out that the reason that they were in the actual airport instead of outside, was because there had recently been a big bust. The National Guard was taking bribes from 'money changers' outside the airport (of which there were more than you could count) who were exchanging counterfeit Bolivars for other currency. The local equivalent to the FBI actually busted the National Guard guys for it.

The 'money changers' were all over the place on this trip and we changed all of our USDs with them as the black market rate was 4.6-4.9 exchange vs the bank rate of 2.5 or so. We got back with roughly $50 US worth of Bolivars and when we decided to see what the exchange rate back into US was in Miami, found we were holding all of $2 US worth of paper in our hands!

The police were no different and we saw many road check points where the police were set up, again with non indexed fingers. At one of these, there were at least 4 policia who had tactical shotguns, were all very young, and all of them had their fingers on the triggers. When I asked about the check points, the locals, who incidentally, hated both the police and National Guard due to their being so corrupt, said that they did these on a random basis and could pull you over for any reason whatsoever, strip your car down, demand $$, or simply make you disappear. Nice...This confirmed our decision not to rent a car, especially as we we were told that 'tourists' were a prime target for the shakedowns.

There was an underlying current of danger throughout our time in any of the cities that only went away when we got farther from civilization. We later heard from a friend who was on the Angel Falls trip and was staying in Caracas, that there was a real crime problem there. People on motorbikes were driving up to cars stopped in the rather atrocious traffic, and if the cars had the windows down, were sticking a gun inside and demanding watches, wallets, etc, and just shooting people who didn't comply. This was confirmed by a couple of other sources and accounted for most of the locals driving around with almost black tints on the windows and the windows rolled tightly up.

Here is a link that shows a 'minor' clash between the pro Chavez National Guard and the mostly anti Chavez police force. This happened in July of 2009, and similar problems were still going on when we were there, especially outside of Caracas.

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.odt.co.nz/files/story/2009/07/protesters_clash_with_national_guard_soldiers_in_c _2012024153.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.odt.co.nz/news/world/65549/troops-and-protesters-clash-venezuela&usg=__CVpXUIrhEF2GBw6YfOwHTZCQQC8=&h=326&w=512&sz=47&hl=en&start=36&sig2=dMvDN0zqcqf4Oewh4l1l1g&um=1&tbnid=AtmE4tTUsUnipM:&tbnh=83&tbnw=131&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dvenezuelan%2Bnational%2Bguard%2Bpictu res%26ndsp%3D20%26hl%3Den%26rlz%3D1B3GGGL_enUS339U S339%26sa%3DN%26start%3D20%26um%3D1&ei=SWUeS5VlgY-2B-rGxKIK

[Funrover]

Great great great!!!!!

[Chris]

Wow, thanks Pete!