Rough Country Lifts

[Fordguy77]

Does anyone have any information about rough country lifts and how they preform. Or even better has anyone or does anyone know someone who has use there 4 inch lift for the Bronco II's? I am having a hard time finding reviews for them. any info would be great weather its bronco related or not

[transplant87]

i heard that RC lifts are not bad. i rode in a truck today had 1 and it rode smooth

[Fordguy77]

i heard that RC lifts are not bad. i rode in a truck today had 1 and it rode smooth

smooth is good. well as of today i now have 2 bronco 2's. one stock, and ones already lifted but needs a bigger lift!!! an rough country has a 4inch and claim they clear 33's. and oh do i like 33's

[transplant87]

smooth is good. well as of today i now have 2 bronco 2's. one stock, and ones already lifted but needs a bigger lift!!! an rough country has a 4inch and claim they clear 33's. and oh do i like 33's
wat size lift is on it

[Fordguy77]

its currently on a sagging 4inch lift with blocks in the back. i pulled some stock blocks from the junkyard, and it will be getting new rear springs this time around. i bought it from some guy who beat the crap out of it. slowly just been building it back up

[transplant87]

well if u revamp the lift thats on it u might clear 35s if u wanted to:thunb:

[Fordguy77]

well if u revamp the lift thats on it u might clear 35s if u wanted to:thunb:

True, it'd be fun. But thats a lot of money into some rubber. And the Bronco II's are really more for mild easy runs(teaching my gf and her little brother the fun in 4 wheeling on a budget), Plus my gf drives one of them as a DD for the time being, so they'd see to much street. i am saving up so i can get the 77 on 35's thou :cool:

[transplant87]

True, it'd be fun. But thats a lot of money into some rubber. And the Bronco II's are really more for mild easy runs(teaching my gf and her little brother the fun in 4 wheeling on a budget), Plus my gf drives one of them as a DD for the time being, so they'd see to much street. i am saving up so i can get the 77 on 35's thou :cool:
stock u can run 33s easy. i put my 78 on my 33s and the fit but bubed the fender cause my springs were worn so all u would need is a 4 inch lift and u would be good

[Fordguy77]

My 77 is on 33's it had 33X12.50 when i bought it and they rubbed, so i bought me a new set of mudders last year with my tax rebate, and ran BFG KM's 33X10.5 and it stopped rubbing.

[DETN8R]

I wouldnt buy another RC lift for a jeep. I hate mine. Not sure about how well they do on other rigs.

[Brody]

Rough Country lifts work, but tend to be a bit stiff. This isn't too much of a problem on a truck, but kills you on a lighter rig or one with a short wheel base.

Do some research into what you can substitute for the stock rear springs and maybe you can find something that will allow you to get rid of the block. If you want a set of after market coils for the front, I have a set that I got from Hyphoid (Mike) that look to be a 3-4" lift. You are welcome to them. I grabbed them as I figured I would run into someone at some point that could use them. I think they are Rough Country..

Bronco Graveyard has Bronco II lift kits:

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/c-345_bronco_ii_4__lift_kits.htm

[JeffX]

I like the Rough country lifts. My buddy has one on his Pathfinder and it works fine.

However, the one Brody linked to for about $1000 is gonna be better than the rough country because it includes new rear springs.

Any way you can avoid lift blocks is smart. They seem to fail at the worst possible time.

[Warrlord]

Does anyone have any information about rough country lifts and how they preform. Or even better has anyone or does anyone know someone who has use there 4 inch lift for the Bronco II's?

RC is okay for Ford TTB lifts if you're only gonna go on mild trails occasionally. The problem is the front diff beam brackets...........They will break with hard & constant usage on tough trails.

The lift bracket on the passenger side for the drivers axle beam needs to gusseted, the "ears" will break off if not.

The lift bracket on the drivers side for the passenger side axle beam has an issue too. On most TTB lifts, you use the stock beam bracket with a drop plate provided in the lift kit then the stock bracket is bolted to the drop plate. One of the problems associated with that is, that plate can move front to rear because of the increased leverage placed on it. It doesn't move much but when the bolts come loose, you'll notice it wander down the highway. The other problem with that drop plate is, it brings the stock bracket too close to the front diff pumpkin (aluminum diff housing). Without an extended bump stop on the drivers side frame rail, it can punch a hole in the diff housing upon drivers side tire stuffage into the wheel well. With the stock Dana 28 diff, this isn't much of an issue but it can happen. If you upgrade to the TTB D35, it will definetly punch a hole in the housing. You can make a bumpstop longer on that side but that would defeat the purpose of obtaining wheel travel for trail usage. On a side note, if you run tires taller than 30x9.50's, carry lots of spare D28 axle shafts. D28's are puny.

I can't remember if it is Rough Country or Tuff Country that redesigned that bracket like the one Skyjacker had from the beginning. Skyjacker doesn't use a drop plate, they use a whole bracket that doesn't interfere with the diff housing in any way no matter how far you can stuff the tire into the wheel well.

The other beam bracket mentioned above about needing be gusseted, well, Skyjacker makes the best out there. That thing is gusseted beyond needing gusseted.

Personally, I recommend Skyjacker for TTB lifts on Rangers, B2's, Explorers. On any other kind of vehicle, I don't know so I can't recommend them for anything other than for TTB's. However, Skyjacker is more expensive & there's a couple things I didn't like about it but remedied later.

1) Their 6" lift is only about 4.5" - 5.0" after the springs settle. Takes a couple weeks. That's due to what they call their, "Soft Ride". Yes it does ride soft & good.

2) The leaf springs need to have a leaf added in between leafs. That only cost me $30.00 from a place here in the Springs.

If you're not going to beat up the B2 on trails, RC will be fine. If you want to beat it up on trails, You'll be money ahead going with a "Skyjacker Class II Sytem" TTB lift.

I ran cheaper lifts (notice the plural) on my '86 Ranger & found out the hard way about TTB lifts. By the time I got through with additional purchases & breaking brackets & strengthening up their weak brackets , I would've been money ahead & headaches ahead by purchasing the most expensive TTB lift system Skyjacker has.............which I did when I got my current '94 Ranger.

[Fordguy77]

RC is okay for Ford TTB lifts if you're only gonna go on mild trails occasionally. The problem is the front diff beam brackets...........They will break with hard & constant usage on tough trails.

The lift bracket on the passenger side for the drivers axle beam needs to gusseted, the "ears" will break off if not.

The lift bracket on the drivers side for the passenger side axle beam has an issue too. On most TTB lifts, you use the stock beam bracket with a drop plate provided in the lift kit then the stock bracket is bolted to the drop plate. One of the problems associated with that is, that plate can move front to rear because of the increased leverage placed on it. It doesn't move much but when the bolts come loose, you'll notice it wander down the highway. The other problem with that drop plate is, it brings the stock bracket too close to the front diff pumpkin (aluminum diff housing). Without an extended bump stop on the drivers side frame rail, it can punch a hole in the diff housing upon drivers side tire stuffage into the wheel well. With the stock Dana 28 diff, this isn't much of an issue but it can happen. If you upgrade to the TTB D35, it will definetly punch a hole in the housing. You can make a bumpstop longer on that side but that would defeat the purpose of obtaining wheel travel for trail usage. On a side note, if you run tires taller than 30x9.50's, carry lots of spare D28 axle shafts. D28's are puny.

I can't remember if it is Rough Country or Tuff Country that redesigned that bracket like the one Skyjacker had from the beginning. Skyjacker doesn't use a drop plate, they use a whole bracket that doesn't interfere with the diff housing in any way no matter how far you can stuff the tire into the wheel well.

The other beam bracket mentioned above about needing be gusseted, well, Skyjacker makes the best out there. That thing is gusseted beyond needing gusseted.

Personally, I recommend Skyjacker for TTB lifts on Rangers, B2's, Explorers. On any other kind of vehicle, I don't know so I can't recommend them for anything other than for TTB's. However, Skyjacker is more expensive & there's a couple things I didn't like about it but remedied later.

1) Their 6" lift is only about 4.5" - 5.0" after the springs settle. Takes a couple weeks. That's due to what they call their, "Soft Ride". Yes it does ride soft & good.

2) The leaf springs need to have a leaf added in between leafs. That only cost me $30.00 from a place here in the Springs.

If you're not going to beat up the B2 on trails, RC will be fine. If you want to beat it up on trails, You'll be money ahead going with a "Skyjacker Class II Sytem" TTB lift.

I ran cheaper lifts (notice the plural) on my '86 Ranger & found out the hard way about TTB lifts. By the time I got through with additional purchases & breaking brackets & strengthening up their weak brackets , I would've been money ahead & headaches ahead by purchasing the most expensive TTB lift system Skyjacker has.............which I did when I got my current '94 Ranger.

Thats exactly the type of information i was looking for. Sounds like i will be going with skyjacker, i was just seeing if there was an alt without costing me and arm and leg.

[Warrlord]

Thats exactly the type of information i was looking for. Sounds like i will be going with skyjacker, i was just seeing if there was an alt without costing me and arm and leg.

That's the problem though.............it costs way more than other TTB lifts. Speaking from personal experience with several TTB lifts, I doubt you'd be disappointed in that lift. If you want a 4" lift, go with their 6" lift & you'll be a tad over 4" in reality.

[KnuckleHead]

When I had my full size bronco and ranger I was looking the same RC lift. I also came across where it was said that the lift is alright for if you dont plan and doing any major wheeling. And that the bracket for the front is not that strong and will be one of the week points.
If you check out " therangerstation.com " site you will find some reviews on this lift.

[Fordguy77]

That's the problem though.............it costs way more than other TTB lifts. Speaking from personal experience with several TTB lifts, I doubt you'd be disappointed in that lift. If you want a 4" lift, go with their 6" lift & you'll be a tad over 4" in reality.

I wonder if it would be possible to order just the brackets from skyjacker? i wonder if that would work fine rather than payin and arm and a leg. but then again skyjacker does have the rep

[Fordguy77]

That's the problem though.............it costs way more than other TTB lifts. Speaking from personal experience with several TTB lifts, I doubt you'd be disappointed in that lift. If you want a 4" lift, go with their 6" lift & you'll be a tad over 4" in reality.

So if i want to run 33's without a body lift would there 6inch lift clear them after it settles? or would i need to go with the 8inch lift so when it settled would it be a round a 6"?

[Warrlord]

I wouldn't go with their 8" lift. Basically, their 8" is a 6" with coil spacers for the front & blocks for the rear. The 6" would clear 33's in the rear but not up front during turns & stuffage cause the wheel openings are very small on B2's & 1st gen Rangers. A little fender trimming with a Sawzall at the bottom of the wheel openings & you'll be in business.

I'll try to find some pics of my '86 fenders when I get home tonight (at work now). I didn't have to trim excessively, just enough to clear the tires on full stuffage. it didn't look hacked either. I hope I still have those pics in the puter somewhere :)

[porkchop]

i had and xj with rough country 4.5 inch lift it was stiff on the roads but did well on the trails

[Fordguy77]

I wouldn't go with their 8" lift. Basically, their 8" is a 6" with coil spacers for the front & blocks for the rear. The 6" would clear 33's in the rear but not up front during turns & stuffage cause the wheel openings are very small on B2's & 1st gen Rangers. A little fender trimming with a Sawzall at the bottom of the wheel openings & you'll be in business.

I'll try to find some pics of my '86 fenders when I get home tonight (at work now). I didn't have to trim excessively, just enough to clear the tires on full stuffage. it didn't look hacked either. I hope I still have those pics in the puter somewhere :)

alright that would be sweet!!! thanks for all the info and help. so the trimming could probably be covered up with fender flares?

[Brody]

alright that would be sweet!!! thanks for all the info and help. so the trimming could probably be covered up with fender flares?


You might think twice about spending the bucks for the flares. They look better than they perform and don't stand up too well when they hit something. You can also get fiberglass fenders that are already cut out and flared for roughly the same price, especially if you are contemplating doing the bigger cut out flares. These do stand up to some abuse.

Bodyworks and Fiberglass Unlimited are just two of the companies that carry all sorts of replacement fiberglass for all different rigs. I would go this route before doing the flares.

[Warrlord]

alright that would be sweet!!! thanks for all the info and help. so the trimming could probably be covered up with fender flares?

Well, I only have 2 pics of the 86 & none show the fender good enough. This is a 4" suspension lift only, & 32" tires. I just had to trim off the bottom corners at an angle about an inch to clear the 32's. Fender flares get beat up from trees, rocks, & crack or break. A "cut-out" flare, meaning over sized wheel opening would work but they're pricey just to have 'em crack or break off later.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v320/Warrlord/Old%20Pics/86ranger1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v320/Warrlord/Old%20Pics/86Ranger2.jpg

[Fordguy77]

Well, I only have 2 pics of the 86 & none show the fender good enough. This is a 4" suspension lift only, & 32" tires. I just had to trim off the bottom corners at an angle about an inch to clear the 32's. Fender flares get beat up from trees, rocks, & crack or break. A "cut-out" flare, meaning over sized wheel opening would work but they're pricey just to have 'em crack or break off later.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v320/Warrlord/Old%20Pics/86ranger1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v320/Warrlord/Old%20Pics/86Ranger2.jpg

that was a pretty nice looking ranger trail rig, and alright thanks the 88 bII i have is already lifted 4inch, and the previous owner cut the front fenders in the lower corner like you said. thanks for all the input. 4inch fits 32's? i'll probably go with a 4inch then.

[Fordguy77]

You might think twice about spending the bucks for the flares. They look better than they perform and don't stand up too well when they hit something. You can also get fiberglass fenders that are already cut out and flared for roughly the same price, especially if you are contemplating doing the bigger cut out flares. These do stand up to some abuse.

Bodyworks and Fiberglass Unlimited are just two of the companies that carry all sorts of replacement fiberglass for all different rigs. I would go this route before doing the flares.

alright i will check them out, cause i dont intend beating them up to bad but some endurance would be great if its roughly in the same ranger

[brian pleasant]

been thinking about rc and skyjacker lately since i really wanted to do sas but i will be using on road driving most of the time, skyjacker is a good kit for ttb but hard core off road, i dont know how it holds up cuz of ttb setup itself not the kit that can cause aligment problems even thought not do any off road such as potholes on roads can change aligment dramatically. that is why i use jeep most of the time on trails.

[Fordguy77]

been thinking about rc and skyjacker lately since i really wanted to do sas but i will be using on road driving most of the time, skyjacker is a good kit for ttb but hard core off road, i dont know how it holds up cuz of ttb setup itself not the kit that can cause aligment problems even thought not do any off road such as potholes on roads can change aligment dramatically. that is why i use jeep most of the time on trails.

Yeah my main trail runner is a 77 f150, these Bronco II's are more for mild runs and just to have fun, and to help me help my gf develop better mechanic skills and out into the mountains

[Roostercruiser]

i have a rough country on mine and for how cheap it was its awesome:thunb:

[Fordguy77]

i have a rough country on mine and for how cheap it was its awesome:thunb:

Thats good, did you experience any problems with it?

[Roostercruiser]

i should have gotten rear leafs isnstaed of blocks. my springs are worn out:bang:. it came with 4 nitro shocks, exteneded brake lines and new pitman arm, new frontsprings and easy to follow instructions. for every thing it was less than $500. no problems yet. smoother ride than factory

[Brody]

been thinking about rc and skyjacker lately since i really wanted to do sas but i will be using on road driving most of the time, skyjacker is a good kit for ttb but hard core off road, i dont know how it holds up cuz of ttb setup itself not the kit that can cause aligment problems even thought not do any off road such as potholes on roads can change aligment dramatically. that is why i use jeep most of the time on trails.



Look around Brian. There was recently a bunch of stuff posted on the TTB, the pitfalls, the expense, TTB vs SAS, etc, etc. Essentially it has the same, but added, problems as the IFS: expensive to make strong enough to justify the expense vs SAS, plus additional alignment problems. Camberg Racing is about the only company that does a beefy TTB set up, but for the $5k or $6k you spend for this....hell, you can figure this one out...:D