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Thread: 58 Willys Wagon

  1. #41
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    Default Re: 58 Willys Wagon



    Brian previously posted:
    "IMO, those blue Fel-Pro gaskets for the valve covers and oil pans are the shiznit, with no sealant required.

    "

    Cool - will give it a try clean and dry (fel pro website says the same thing). If it doesn't work, it will leak oil just like it has been doing and like everything else does, so no big deal. Its pretty easy to try again at the next oil change.
    ___________
    James Orofino
    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon
    2010 Tacoma TRD

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    Default Re: 58 Willys Wagon



    Well finally got things back together and running again....
    While I had things apart on the bottom, I added an adpater so I can run a traditional screw on oil filter cartridge, and got the oil pan on.


    After fighting some distributor issues - the old Accel distributors a friends sent me just seem to not work anymore - I went with the traditional 60s-70's delco distributor with a Pertronix unit in it.


    Fit seems to work in the space (although the cap and rotor have to be removed to put-in or take the unit out....Hopefully with the pertronix unit it won't need much attention. ALso added a new internally resisted coil to simplify some of the wiring and firewall clutter....


    Then made it all legal...
    ___________
    James Orofino
    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon
    2010 Tacoma TRD

  3. The Following 2 Members Say Thanks to FINOCJ For This Post:

    Bob (December 2nd, 2019),Tom (November 13th, 2019)

  4. #43
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    Default Re: 58 Willys Wagon



    ps - let me know if the photos don't work...seems like sometimes when I copy them from the ecj5 site, they don't always come across....
    ___________
    James Orofino
    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon
    2010 Tacoma TRD

  5. #44
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    Default Re: 58 Willys Wagon



    FINOCJ previously posted:
    "ps - let me know if the photos don't work...seems like sometimes when I copy them from the ecj5 site, they don't always come across...."

    They work. That looks awesome James. Cant wait to see it in person.
    ___________
    Tom
    -.- . - . - -.-

    Life is just better in 4-Low!

    https://m.youtube.com/user/wcrosman/videos

  6. #45
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    Default Re: 58 Willys Wagon



    Congrats!

  7. #46
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    Default Re: 58 Willys Wagon



    Tom previously posted:
    "They work. That looks awesome James. Cant wait to see it in person."

    Hoping to take it up to Longmont to help Trent on Sat...will be by far its longest trip from the house....if I don't make it to Trent's, you'll know why.
    ___________
    James Orofino
    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon
    2010 Tacoma TRD

  8. #47
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    Default Re: 58 Willys Wagon



    If you make it to Longmont, you've gone too far to find me. Looking forward to seeing the wagon!

  9. #48
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    Default Re: 58 Willys Wagon



    yes...Broomfield....still the longest road trip it will have made...
    ___________
    James Orofino
    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon
    2010 Tacoma TRD

  10. #49
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    Default Re: 58 Willys Wagon



    James - Here's another one for you!

    https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...7388609490521/
         

  11. #50
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    Default Re: 58 Willys Wagon



    Dual MC set up with remote reservoir arrived today from R&P custom 4x4...Richards new R&P business (its in Oregon). Willwood MC with bracket to mount to frame for oem floor pedal set-up. Has remote reservoir that mounts on inner fender so it easy to check and fill fluid. Unlike the CJ the wagon doesn't have the inspection cover in the floor (and the sbc exhaust may also make access to the MC more difficult than the L6?), so this should make it easier to deal with. This MC works nicely with R&Ps disc set up with proper RPV - future project maybe, but for now I am keeping oem drums. Will hopefully start on this later this week...have DD maintenance tonight and skiing this weekend so....keep you posted.
    ___________
    James Orofino
    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon
    2010 Tacoma TRD

  12. #51
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    Default Re: 58 Willys Wagon



    Old MC out without damaging or mangling anything....probably will have some brake line bending and new fittings etc to make....and will have to figure out a brake light switch.


    ___________
    James Orofino
    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon
    2010 Tacoma TRD

  13. The Following Member Says Thanks to FINOCJ For This Post:

    Tom (January 17th, 2020)

  14. #52
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    Default Re: 58 Willys Wagon



    slow progress...mocked up the new mounting bracket from R&P - it uses the same 2 frame mounts the OEM MC uses the support mount on the pedal pivot - then fit the cylinder....now need to mock up the remote reservoirs which I intend to mount on the inner driver side fender?

    ___________
    James Orofino
    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon
    2010 Tacoma TRD

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    Default Re: 58 Willys Wagon



    That's a good looking MC bracket, nicely done!

  16. #54
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    Default Re: 58 Willys Wagon



    This brake project is the project that just doesn't make much progress....
    After fitting up the MC install, it was time to work on the brake lines and figure out a brake light switch. I was thinking (hoping?) this was going to be pretty simple with just reshaping some of the ends of the brake lines by the MC, but it turns out the OEM brake line set-up was a bit surprising. There are 2 lines (different size) that come out of the junction block with the brake light switch. The small 3/16 line only goes to the front driver side. The larger 1/4 line goes around the front frame member and into a junction block by the front passenger side. One out line goes to the front passenger brake, and the other out line continues down the passenger frame rail and into another junction block at the rear axle - splitting to each rear brake. This is oem according to the FSM:


    Here is the junction block at the passenger front - the 1/4 line from the MC comes in on the left. The right out is 3/16 to the passenger front wheel cylinder, and the bottom out is 3/16 and goes to the rear brakes.


    As I want the new MC for the dual res/circuit aspect, I need the both front brakes plumbed together, and both rear brakes plumbed together. So new brakes lines it is....I am making a 3/16 line that will go from one MC res around the front (following the oem routing), but it will connect directly and only to the rear brake. Here is my initial attempt to bend it up:


    I think it came out pretty welll - just one goofy spot on the front passenger. I used a small handheld bender and zip tied as I went along to hold it to the old line to help make sure all my bends matched the original and stayed 'on-plane'. I left some room on the MC end so I can figure out that fitting when more in place. The hard part will be getting it back in place and test fitting - may have to remove the radiator (argghhh). I don't want to flare the ends until I have it just right, but I might have to flare the MC end with the line in place...

    The front circuit will be a bit more difficult - have to put a junction block (with light switch) soon after the MC, and then route the passenger line around the front as well....
    ___________
    James Orofino
    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon
    2010 Tacoma TRD

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    Default Re: 58 Willys Wagon



    Some progress...I almost feel like I made rough drafts of the brake lines, and now I should completely do them again without all the little errors....

    The MC - the circuit coming from the back of the MC goes to the front brake distribution block I mounted in the frame channel. The top output goes the the front driver side drum. The other output that is empty will go around to the front passenger drum. The brake light switch will go in just above the mounting bolt. The circuit coming from the front of the MC follows the OEM routing along the front frame rail....

    It then connects to the remainder of the rear brake line. The open connection is for the front passenger brake...
    ___________
    James Orofino
    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon
    2010 Tacoma TRD

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    Default Re: 58 Willys Wagon



    Wow, nice find I just read for the first time. Great thread making me miss CO even more.
    ___________
    Chris in Florida

  19. The Following Member Says Thanks to Chris For This Post:

    FINOCJ (March 25th, 2020)

  20. #57
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    Default Re: 58 Willys Wagon



    Should have some down time to continue to work on it over the next month....Been focus the last 1.5 weeks on basement work, and that will continue for a while longer. The garage is only so big, and its sort of set-up for the cutting the flooring and baseboards etc. Then painting the baseboards and once that is all done, its back to brake lines, and modifying a fan shroud in some way to help with cooling.
    ___________
    James Orofino
    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon
    2010 Tacoma TRD

  21. #58
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    Default Re: 58 Willys Wagon



    Brake lines finished...really hope the flare fittings seal.
    New distribution block for the front circuit. Light switch will go into block as well.
    Reservoirs mounted
    ___________
    James Orofino
    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon
    2010 Tacoma TRD

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    Default Re: 58 Willys Wagon



    Radiator shroud....Looking back in this thread you can see I replaced the radiator it came with which was not original (was seeping and did not fit very well)...There was a big gap between the radiator and fan, so I put a spacer behind the fan moving it forward, and also used some spacers to move the radiator back...

    With the sbc swap, the fan sits pretty low and off to to the passenger side which doesn't help with cooling. Although it stays plenty cool when moving along, it wasn't quite enough to keep it cool when sitting in stop and go (mostly stop) traffic around here...So a fan shroud is needed and with the radiator out for the brake line work, now is a good time to do it...
    Here was the homebrew shroud it came with from PO - which is now long gone...


    I used a universal shroud kit with the push-through pins, did some slight modifications to the shroud and got it mounted on the radiator...With the sbc swap, the fan is low and quite off-center to the passenger side of the radiator...


    After doing it, here are my thoughts: I don't mind the push-pin part so much, and the light shroud is solidly held in place...but the plastic threads and washers leave a lot to be desired. It doesn't take much to destroy/strip the plastic threads and wonder how long they will hold the shroud in place. Thinking of replacing the plastic push-pin with some small machine screws or like 1/4" bolts and better washers to go with the rubber washers and wing nuts - or maybe just use some nylock nuts in place of the wing nuts. Now that the plastic push pin has safely made the the 'hole' through the fins, it would be simple to replace with something a bit stronger. Of course, new bolts requires a trip to the hardware store....not my favorite activity right now...
    Its not perfect, but I think its pretty good and hopefully it won't take much to keep it cool....


    With the radiator moved to the proper forward position, the blade sits about right in terms of depth - the edge is right about half the blade. Plus there is no gap between the radiator and front grill which should funnel more fresh air over through the radiator helping cooling:


    And I probably have a bit too much gap around the outside circumference - its probably 1.5-2" instead of 1" but still seems pretty good:


    Moving the radiator forward to its proper mounting position has some benefits:
    1) keeps fresh air coming through the grill also going through the radiator...with the 1" spacers, some fresh air coming through the grill could then bypass the radiator going through the gap between the grill and radiator. It also means fresh air from outside the grill is pulled through the radiator at slow speed, as opposed to pulling hotter air from the engine bay around and through the grill.
    2) The Champion radiator fits perfect in terms of the mounting holes on the grill, but it leaves absolutely no clearance in terms of height between the front cross-member under the radiator, and the top of the radiator cap on the underside of the hood...The underside of the hood was sitting/rubbing the top of the radiator cap as it was, and the hood did not quite close the way you'd want it to. With the radiator just a bit further forward, there is just a smidge more room, and it feels like the hood closes properly, but it may still rub a bit.

    Downside to moving the radiator forward...the fan is now farther away but hopefully the shroud will more than compensate and help it pull more air through the radiator. Also, the outlet hose on the radiator may be blocked by the battery tray support...This is gonna be close whether it will fit or not...but if not, I'll cut it out and weld it in differently...
    ___________
    James Orofino
    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon
    2010 Tacoma TRD

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    Default Re: 58 Willys Wagon



    Was ready to try and bleed the brakes etc...Only two of the cylinders would bleed properly...so had to dig into that a bit more. Actually, the RF cylinder had the bleed valve broken off down close enough to the cylinder that there was no way I could coax it out and replace.

    And the RR wouldn't accept any fluid even with the bleeder completely removed - although there was good fluid at the fitting going into the cylinder. So, if you are going to replace 2 wheel cylinders you might as well replace all 4...and as these are old school drums, so old that you have to pull the wheel bearings and wheel hub to remove the drum (which is behind the wheel hub - sometimes called 'inboard' drums), that you might as well think about what else needs to be done - like new brake shoes.

    So somewhat rebuilt front brakes - about as simple as they get with 2 springs and 2 clips. The rear brakes are identical except for an extra parking brake lever and actuator bar...didn't get a pic yet. Was also lucky that the rear hubs came off fairly easy with a BF hub puller and a repeated cycling of bottle torch heat and impact gun. The pic is the RF.

    These are Wagner 11" brakes with manual adjustment for the shoes (the two odd looking silver heads above the blue clips). Every few thousand miles you have to manually turn the adjustment to push the shoe out toward the drum so the wheel cylinder can push it the rest of the way. Can you imagine people having to manually adjust their brakes today every month or so!

    I am glad I dug into them a bit more as the PO did not have them correct. First - the long shoe goes to the front of the drum on this old (40s/50s) style brake, which is unusual. Almost all drum brakes - especially those common on US auto makers since the 60s with automatic adjustment (braking in reverse) - you put the big on back (BOB) half of the drum. Its so common that almost everyone does it out of habit - even after reading in two spots in my factory service manual I went asking some willys experts just to be certain. As the front brake shoes does more of the braking in this set-up - the short ones the PO put in front were severely worn, and that was made worse as the manual adjusters were not correct, and again, only the front shoe was spaced properly and doing all the braking. Almost completely worn front shoes, with essentially untouched larger rear shoes...I am surprised it stopped as well as it did. I ended up buying a single shoe set - they went on the front axle, and am re-using the 4 best shoes for the rear axle. Although the small shoes are a bit worn, with the larger shoes in great shape and now on the front side of the drum, and that the rear brakes don't do nearly as much work as the front...hopefully it will work. Mostly, NAPA only had one set in stock and I don't really want to deal with lots of trips to the store right now...I'll probably regret not pulling the backing plates, replacing the axle seals, and then painting all the pieces for a true full rebuild, not to mention replacing the wheel bearings etc....but just trying to get this thing on the road for a bit. If this works well and I keep the old brake system, then at some point it'll get a full and proper rebuild, but this should do for now.
    ___________
    James Orofino
    1970 CJ5
    1958 Willys Wagon
    2010 Tacoma TRD

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