xaza's 94 XJ Build

[xaza]

Decided to try a set of powerstop pads and rotors. Found the battery dead when trying to move it over to do brakes. Had a lot of corrosion that I cleaned up while cussing myself out for the way things are wired up. Still didn't start. Put it on a charger and left it to return and find it still no good. Time to replace the battery, in my fashion. Over the years adding accessories to the truck I had a horrible stack of connectors on the battery and also had been putting off an electrical upgrade to the stock wiring in the truck, more about that later when I get it done. Replaced battery and only reconnected essentials to move over and complete brakes. Smooth enough and straight forward, I am looking forward to seeing the results. Now the fun stuff, we pulled out all the extra wiring I have installed in the truck. There was 40 ft of 2g wire, 25 ft of 4g and a ridiculous amount of 14 and 16g. Still a little left under dash which will be reused. Found a metal bracket that will work for a junction block at battery terminal. I need to drill and thread a few holes and it will be ready. Unfortunately schedules and weather are making progress slow, hope to be done in next couple weeks. Going to rerun my wire more efficiently and actually add back in a few things I had removed. I have a new switch panel to locate a mounting spot for as well as a new fuse block. Not much to show except this little sneak peak.

[Jim]

Nice panel. `have any close-up of the icons on the switches?

[xaza]

I lit it up and took a picture showing icons better. It was a kit that came with 10 to choose from for the 6 switches. I think I am going to have to change out one because I don't like the way it looks lit up. Link to panel
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also took a picture of the bracket I am preparing for my terminal connector.

[xaza]

Been busy with life and electrical has been slow to get done. Made some progress but have a lot of tidying up to do. Made some improvements to factory wiring and set up a secondary system for all add ons. The ground wire from battery to chassis was way undersized and was replaced. The power wire from battery to under hood fuse panel was undersized and was replaced. The wiring for the alternator runs through fuse in under hood panel. This wire was left in place as is and a duplicate wire was run through a fuse in parallel for more flow between alternator and battery. This will all aid in high load conditions such as winching. Power was run through a fuse to new fuse panel in kick panel of driver side. There it junctions and runs back to power inverter where it junctions to run to stereo amp. I have made drawings of this and will post later. I have tested power inverter with pole saw. It handles amps easily without dipping voltage. Should be able to easily run electric chainsaw if needed for trail cleaning as well as my electric impact.

[xaza]

I received my new gauge this week and managed to take some readings yesterday. I found 500 psi at all 4 tires under moderate braking. Under heavy breaking the front will climb to 1,000 psi but the rear doesn't go up. We put the gauge on Wylies truck and found he has same output to the rear as me. He shouldn't because of the high pressure master cylinder we put in mine. Going to reconnect vacuum pump today and see how much change we get boosting vacuum. We still have to check pressure at master cylinder but wanted to wait until last since that will require a full brake bleed after. Any brake gurus that might have an idea of what I have going on please speak up. This is new territory for me and I am tired of fighting this.

[dieseldoc]

Not a guru but.....

Is there a proportion valve in there some place. Some of the older systems used a high adjusted/ load sending proportioning valve. Just a though

[xaza]

There is. I pulled the proportioning/combination valve from a non ABS Cherokee and replaced the spring with one from a Grand Cherokee valve for the rear disk brakes. I am still hoping the valve is my issue, will have pressures from master cylinder and prop valve today. Yesterday was a short day because of getting out on the bike and welding on Wylie's project.

[xaza]

Well last week we could not get pressure directly from master cylinder. We jacked the back end up to level master and bench bleed it. Using slow strokes like we normally would resulted in no air. Slightly faster pumping and a few taps with a wrench freed some trapped air. Decided to replace prop valve with one intended for disk brake conversions, new one is heavy. Replaced lines from master to prop valve with new line. Here is where we found our issue I believe. The factory lines had additional fittings to fit outlet of prop valve that I am not sure where we got them but they should not have been used. The port is too small for a paperclip. Got to snug stuff down tight and bleed system. Afterward I will check with gauge to see difference. I believe my issue was volume more than pressure but we shall see. Hopefully will wrap it up in the morning. here are some dark phone pics.

[JandDGreens]

When we put Marks 8.8 in all we did was get the guts from a grand Cherokee with rear disk brakes and swapped them out. (worked like a charm. I hope your able to get it all figured out.

[xaza]

One picture from last night needed resized before I could post. Here is one of the bad fittings we found sitting next to a piece of 3/16" line. Goes to show you need to pay attention to more than just the threads.

[xaza]

Got the air out of the lines and checked caliper pressure again. Front calipers did not change a lot in pressure as expected. Under heavy braking I am getting about 1250 psi now. Prop valve did help the rear brakes a lot though, am now getting 900 psi at heavy braking. To sum it up I went from a total 3,000 psi at all 4 wheels to 4,300 between eliminating restriction and changing valve. Took for a test drive and I successfully have brakes I am comfortable driving with. Won't lock up any tires but will stop safely. I feel confident in saying that changing the spring from a ZJ in the prop valve does not work properly. The distribution was the same as stock at 50% reduction to rear. I would recommend anyone doing a disk brake upgrade to purchase the new prop valve, it is only $50 and produces real results.

[Jim]

How did you get PSI measurements?

[Brucker]

Good stuff!

[xaza]

Ordered a brake pressure gauge. Fits most calipers but fittings will not fit into any adapters I found which is why I couldn't get readings from master cylinder. Gauge just threads in place of bleeder screw.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Stainless-Ste...EaAvCSEALw_wcB

[xaza]

My hand got tired before finishing bleeding the first line. I noticed when pumping it up it was pulling into about 20 inches of vacuum before opening bleeder. Hmmm I thought, that is what my Audi vacuum pump I installed for booster vacuum pulls. Hooked pump up with 20 ft nylon hose to provide constant vacuum. Flushed the brakes in no time.

[xaza]

Good enough only works for so long with me. Found in 4 low coming down obstacles brakes were still not up to the challenge. Ordered the Black Magic super 16 brake kit. This did require me to go to a 16" rim so I needed new tires also. Went to an aluminum rim to drop some some weight. Also dropped down tire size to about a 34x11.5 to additionally shed some weight. Overall about 12 lbs per corner. Truck appreciates this weight drop on the highway heading up to the hills. We ran Metberry Gulch last weekend and the brakes were great. Ran Slaughterhouse yesterday and again they performed, perhaps even better as they are getting broke in. Kit requires new steering knuckles, included in kit, with newer model TJ unit bearings. Only issue we ran into on install was threads for steering stop did not go all the way through the knuckle to the side where it goes. Simply ran thread tap through and swapped stops from old knuckles in.

[Jim]

xaza previously posted:

[xaza]

I bet it would Jim.

I finally got around to mounting my switch panel. It did not fit in the location I had planned so I cut it in half and split it into 2 places. Got it wired up and added a few lights. I have the 4 underside lights installed but still have 4 RGB lights for the wheel wells to install. Added 2 lights atop the cage in back to use for reverse lights and 2 of the same on the bull bar up front.
Moved rear license plate to intended location on tire carrier and changed out lights for it. The old light got moved to inside rear bumper to light up back side of rear axle. Finally got front license plate mounted. Used a couple bolts/nuts, washers and a rubber hose to mount it to winch fairlead. The hose just fits in and then the bolts and washers pinch the hose to wedge it in place. It has stayed in place for last 2 trips out so I think it is good but I used zip ties as a leash to prevent losing it should it fall out.
Current project is a transmission override knob. It will allow me to lock transmission in 1st, 2nd or operate normally. Got switch mounted and wiring routed but still have to splice into transmission wiring harness at the PCM. I have complained for years about not being able to hold 2nd going downhill. It either downshifts harshly into 1st if I slow down too much in "1-2" or quickly shifts up if in "3" or "D". By far this is the most exciting part of this round of upgrades.